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Organic Greenhouse Tomato Production
موضوع: Horticulture چهارشنبه 1385/06/01 9:1 بعد از ظهر

Organic Greenhouse Tomato Production

Abstract

This publication offers an overview of organic greenhouse tomato production. To be successful, the small-scale producer needs to do thorough production and marketing research, find or create a niche market, and produce a consistently healthy crop. Maintaining optimum fertilization and moisture levels, practicing rigorous pest management, and ensuring good pollination can increase crop yields. Information in this publication includes organic management methods for major diseases and insect pests; organic fertilization recommendations; a list of organic fertilizer suppliers; and a directory of further resources available on the Internet.

Table of Contents

Introduction

Tomatoes are the leading greenhouse vegetable crop in the United States and Canada. In the U.S., the total acreage in greenhouse tomato production increased by 40 percent between 1996 and 1999. Statistics for 1999 show that the U.S. had about 800 acres in greenhouse vegetable production, with tomatoes accounting for 750 of those acres.(1) The leading states in greenhouse vegetable production are California, Florida, Colorado, Arizona, Ohio, Texas, and Pennsylvania—each with more than one million square feet in production.(2) The vast majority of greenhouse tomatoes are produced in greenhouses using conventional production systems. Conventional and organic greenhouse production differ in the types of potting media, fertilization practices, and pest control methods they use.

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Education is Key

Education is the first step toward a successful greenhouse tomato crop, and there is a lot of information available on growing greenhouse tomatoes. Your local extension agent is an excellent source of information for your area. Extension publications from all U.S. states are available on the Internet. Most publications can be downloaded and printed at no charge. California, Colorado, Florida, North Carolina, Georgia, and Mississippi all have excellent information on growing greenhouse tomatoes. Dr. Mary Peet's Greenhouse Vegetable Production Website is an especially good resource with links to many related websites. This website offers valuable information on sustainable production and integrated pest management, with specific information on individual crops. Mississippi State Extension Service has many publications and articles on greenhouse tomato production written by Dr. Rick Snyder. This website focuses mainly on conventional greenhouse production; however, much of the information is valuable to both organic and conventional growers.

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Marketing

Sell your tomato crop before you plant it. It is important for small growers to explore niche markets such as selling directly to the public via roadside stands or at farmers' markets. Marketing your products as "locally grown" is a possible strategy to explore. It may also be feasible to wholesale your product directly to local and regional retailers that sell organic produce.

Direct market sales are affected by competition among local greenhouses and by cut-rate wholesale organic produce. The market can change rapidly, and greenhouse producers must be adaptable to change. The popular press and advertising can have a powerful influence on consumers. Niche markets can fade overnight with the arrival of large wholesale operations or simply by a change in consumer demand.(3) For more information, request the ATTRA publications Direct Marketing and Organic Marketing Resources.

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Scheduling the Crop

Greenhouse tomatoes bring the highest price from December through April, when it is too cool for local field-grown tomatoes. Winter growers may choose between a one- or two-crop system. With the one-crop system, plants are set in September and grow through the winter and spring until late June. This system works best in the cooler and less humid northern regions and is also used by most Florida growers. In a two-crop system, the fall crop is succeeded by a spring crop. Tomato plants that have been growing since September do not have the same vigor as the younger transplants. The older plants tend to have a denser growth by winter, which reduces airflow and aggravates problems with humidity. Plants held over winter are more likely to be infected with diseases that thrive on high humidity and cooler temperatures, such as Gray Mold (caused by Botrytis cinerea) and Leaf Mold (caused by Cladosporium fulvum).

Days to Maturity
Very Early 45-50
Early 50-60
Midseason 70-80

In a two-crop system, the fall crop is seeded between July and September. Check with your local extension agent for planting times in your area. If the crop is planted too early, high summer heat can stunt the young plants and delay harvest. For premium prices, try to schedule the first harvest to coincide with the first frost in your area. In some southern states, first frost may come as late as mid-November to early December.

Seed the spring crop in mid- to late November. If possible, the seedlings should be started in a separate house, in case there is a disease or insect problem with the fall crop. The seedlings will be ready to transplant about six weeks after seeding. Expect to see the first harvest in late March or early April. The spring crop is usually grown until the summer crop of field tomatoes is ready to harvest.(3)

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Soil and Soilless Media

Greenhouse tomatoes can be grown in soil or in soilless media. In soil culture, crops are grown at ground level or in raised beds. The soil is usually amended with approved compost and other approved organic additives. The potential for disease and nematode build up in organic soil-based greenhouses is quite high in many areas. Tomatoes, in particular, are vulnerable to many soil-borne diseases, including Verticillium and Fusarium wilts. Nematodes that can cause root knot galling can also be a problem in some soils. Many growers go to the added expense of grafting onto disease and nematode resistant rootstock. Steam pasteurization and solarization in the summer are approved pest control methods for nematodes, Verticilium, Fusarium, and other soil-borne pathogens.

For general information about greenhouse organics, see the ATTRA publication Organic Greenhouse Vegetable Production.

Soilless cultivation methods—sometimes collectively (and loosely) known as hydroponics—are covered in the ATTRA publication Greenhouse and Hydroponic Vegetable Resources.

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Pest Manangement

One key to a successful organic greenhouse operation is maintaining rigorous pest management. A pesticide-free greenhouse means that growers must practice good sanitation and pest management methods from the beginning. Pathogens or insects can become epidemic in a greenhouse environment in a very short time. Once a pest problem has set in, there are few options available to organic greenhouse producers. For detailed information on specific greenhouse tomato pests and controls, see Appendix One. Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a strategy that can be used in organic production as well as in conventional production systems.

IPM promotes a variety of tactics, including the use of pest resistant varieties and biological, cultural, and physical controls. Pesticides are a control tactic used in IPM, but they are used only when needed. Pesticide use is thus minimized without jeopardizing crop quality or yield. Organic production systems use all of these, with the exception of chemical pesticides. Other pesticides, such as insecticidal soaps, biopesticides, botanicals, and mineral-based pesticides, are allowed. For more detailed information on greenhouse IPM, refer to the ATTRA publication, Integrated Pest Management for Greenhouse Crops.

Cultural Control Methods

In a closed environment, some diseases can literally spread overnight. Pathogens come in contact with the plants in many ways. Infested soil or plant debris, air movement, water, and contaminated hands, tools, or clothing can all spread disease. Good ventilation and air circulation, rigorous sanitation practices, and maintaining optimum temperatures and humidity levels are effective methods of disease control in the greenhouse.

Sanitation

Rigorous sanitation practices are essential for healthy and productive crops. Before a crop is planted, it is important to thoroughly inspect the greenhouse. Screens, doors, and walls should be checked periodically for any tears or other openings. Mulching around the plants and using landscape fabric on walkways helps to reduce weeds and soilborne pathogens. It is not advisable to store houseplants in vegetable production greenhouses. A seemingly healthy houseplant can be a vector for many diseases that attack vegetable crops.(4)

During tomato production, debris and cull piles are a prime source of many plant diseases. Promptly remove all plant debris from the greenhouse areas before an infection can take place. Work surfaces should be made of non-porous material, such as stainless steel, and sterilized after each use. Laundry bleach is an acceptable disinfectant, providing the residual chlorine levels in the bleach-water do not exceed those set by the Safe Drinking Water Act (4 ppm).

Good (Green)housekeeping

  • Keep doors closed and make sure all screens are in good working order.
  • Make sure all plant debris and cull piles are removed promptly.
  • Sanitize hands, tools, and machinery when moving from house to house.
  • Have a shoe wash at each entrance.
  • Wash clothing regularly in hot water.
  • Do not store houseplants in production greenhouses.

Proper sterilization of hands, feet, and clothing when moving from house to house greatly reduces cross-contamination. Before entering the greenhouse, hands should be washed in hot soapy water. For tobacco users (both smokers and chewers), a rinse of 1–3% trisodium phosphate prior to washing in hot soapy water is recommended to avoid the introduction of Tobacco Mosaic Virus (TMV) into the greenhouse. Because TMV can survive on clothing for long periods of time (up to 3 years in a darkened closet), it is important that clothing and overalls be changed daily and washed and dried at high temperatures. A shoe wash with a disinfectant-soaked mat at the entrance to the greenhouse will help eliminate pathogens brought in on shoes. Adding a small enclosed entry porch to the greenhouse provides a place to decontaminate shoes, tools, and equipment, and also helps keep out pests. In situations where there is a contagious disease such as bacterial canker, all tools, machinery, and electromechanical pollinators should be sterilized at the end of every row with ethanol or 0.5% sodium hypochlorite.(5)

Ventilation, temperature control, and humidity reduction

Temperature control and humidity reduction play a major role in maintaining greenhouse crop health. During the fall, winter, and spring, when the majority of greenhouse tomatoes are grown, high humidity and limited air circulation give many diseases an ideal growing environment. Moisture condensation creates humid conditions within the foliage, encouraging fungal and bacterial infection.(6)

Good ventilation and proper temperature control are critical for reducing humidity and controlling airborne fungal diseases. To ensure good ventilation, allow several feet of airspace above the plants and use proper spacing between them. Pruning the suckers just below the first fruit set also helps to maintain good air circulation within the canopy. To increase ventilation, Mike Collins of Old Athens Farm in Westminster, Vermont, culls the bottom leaves once his plants are four feet tall. Collins cuts the leaves off an inch away from the stem and snaps off the stubs at the next pruning to minimize Botrytis infection sites.(7) Some greenhouse producers also "lower" their crop—move the plants on their supports, so the sections ready for harvest are always at the same level, enjoying the same temperature.

Optimum air temperature for sustained tomato growth:

  • Day: 75–85°F
  • Night: 60–70°F

Temperature control can be maintained in several ways. Polyethylene tubing works best for maintaining even temperatures throughout the greenhouse. With this system, fresh air from the outside can be warmed with fan-type heaters to maintain optimum temperatures. Fans inside the greenhouse, mounted above the crop, help keep temperature uniform. With a pad and fan system, the air can be too cool at the cooling-pad end and too warm at the fan end. Temperature differences of 10–15ºF can occur within the same greenhouse, which can cause catfacing, uneven growth, failures in fruit set, and devastating foliage disease.(6) And the higher the humidity, the less efficient evaporative systems are. For even heating from the ground up, heating pipes can be placed between alternating rows. The heated air rises and pushes the cooler air to the floor, helping to maintain good airflow. In hot climates, greenhouses need higher roofs to keep hot air away from the plants.

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Resistant Varieties

Using disease-resistant seeds and transplants whenever possible is one of the organic greenhouse producer's best lines of defense. For best results, use good- quality seed from a reputable source. Organic growers must use organically grown seed if it is commercially available, or untreated seed from a conventional source if it is not. For a list of organic and untreated seed and transplant suppliers, see ATTRA's Suppliers of Seed for Certified Organic Production .

To indicate disease resistance, a series of abbreviations is usually listed with the description of the cultivar. Each abbreviation stands for a specific pathogen. For instance, Tobacco Mosaic Virus is TMV; Fusarium Wilt race 1 is F1, etc.(8) Fusarium Crown and Root Rot may be printed as FCRR or FrWi depending on the distributor. See Table 1 for examples of major greenhouse tomato diseases and their abbreviations. See Table 2 for a list of resistant greenhouse tomato varieties.

Table 1. Common Disease Abbreviations*
Disease Abbreviation
Bacterial Speck BSK-O
Early Blight (Alternaria) EB
Fusarium Crown & Root Rot FCRR or FrWi
Verticilium Wilt—Race 1 V
Fusarium Wilt  
 — Race 1 F1
 — Race 2 F2
 — Race 3 F3
Leaf Mold (Cladosporium) C2, C5, C7
Nematode N
Powdery Mildew (Oidium) Oi
Gray Leaf Spot (Stemphylium) St
Tobacco Mosaic Virus TMV
Tomato Spotted Wilt TSW or TmSw
Tomato Mosaic Virus ToMV
*These are examples of common abbreviations. Suppliers may differ in abbreviation styles.

Once a variety of tomato has been selected, the next task is to decide whether to grow transplants from seed or to purchase plugs. Either way, all transplants must be grown using approved organic methods and inputs. The advantages of producing plugs in-house include an efficient use of greenhouse space and rapid production. The disadvantages include extra labor cost for seeding and transplant production and increased heating costs in winter (plugs are very sensitive to temperature fluctuations). There are many issues to consider when deciding whether to use seed or transplants. The size of the operation, available labor, and cost of production are just a few considerations. According to Kessler and Behe (9):

The decision should be based partially on market considerations, labor availability and expertise, the number of plants to be produced, the cost per plug, and the specialized equipment and facilities required. This investment is often not economically practical unless production is large or plugs are marketed to other growers. For most small to medium sized growers, especially [beginners], it is often more economical to purchase…plugs from specialized growers and concentrate on producing finished containers. The issue of grow versus purchase should be reviewed periodically as the needs and facilities of the grower change.

For more-detailed information on plug production, see the ATTRA publication Organic Plug and Transplant Production.

Table 2. Disease-resistant Greenhouse Tomato Varieties*
Disease Resistant Varieties Tolerant Varieties
Fusarium Crown and Root Rot Trust  
Fusarium Wilt
  • Race 1
  • Race 2
  • Race 3

 

Caruso, Trust
Caruso, Trust

 

Vendor
Vendor
Leaf Mold (Cladosporium) Buffalo, Capello, Caruso (races
A thru E), Cobra, Dombito, Jumbo,
Match, Pink KR15 and Pink CR-864
with gene Cf-5, Trend, Trust (races
A thru E), Ultra Sweet & Ultra Pink
with Cf-7, Vision, Furon and
Vetomold with Cf-2
 
Powdery Mildew (Oidium) DRW 4409, Belliro (DRW 4369) Grace, Milano
Gray Leaf Spot (Stemphylium)    
Tobacco Mosaic Virus Boa, Caruso, Cobra, Trust Vendor
Tomato Spotted Wilt DRW 5719  
*Remember, you must use organically grown seed if it is available commercially, or untreated seed if it is not.

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Nutrition

A well-fed plant is a healthy plant. Maintaining optimum nutrient, light, and moisture levels will result in healthier plants that are better able to fend off diseases and insect pests. Tomatoes are heavy feeders because of their rapid growth and long production season. Tomatoes need 75 to 100 pounds of nitrogen (N) per acre and moderate to high levels of phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) for maximum yields. Soil tests can establish what nutrients soil needs. Some growers add a mixture of animal meal by-products, rock phosphate, and kelp meal to provide needed nutrients. Fertilizer efficiency is highest at a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. To help maintain proper nutrition and pH levels, a pH meter is a handy tool. For more information on organic fertilizers and the nutritional needs of tomatoes, see the ATTRA publication, Organic Tomato Production.

According to the National Organic Standards, it appears that organic greenhouse crops may be grown either in soil or in soilless media. Building nutrient-rich soil in a greenhouse environment takes extra time and effort, but the results are well worth it. Compost is the main nutrient ingredient used in soil beds. One grower in Canada applies compost at a rate of one or two cubic meters per 100 square meters of bed space (1.2 to 2.4 cubic yards per 1,000 square feet). The beds are then covered with straw mulch. Five to six applications were added to the beds at five- to six-week intervals in the first year. The compost was applied in smaller amounts and less frequently through the fourth year. A rich, healthy soil was the result. Soil organic matter usually ranges from 10 to 12% and can even reach a remarkable 25 to 30% after several years. For more information on large-scale composting, see ATTRA's Farm-Scale Composting Resource List.

Soilless technology shows promise for increasing yields and reducing economic losses to soil-borne diseases. Dr. Mary Peet and Janet Miles of North Carolina State University have recently concluded a study to develop organic fertilization regimes specifically for greenhouse tomatoes using soilless media. See Appendix Two for a copy of the article, "Recommended Fertilization Practices for Producing Organic Greenhouse Tomatoes" by Janet Miles. This article includes detailed recipes for each stage of maturity.

Grower Profile

Six years ago, Mike Duda, a market gardener from Victor, Montana, was just sick about his tomatoes: The high winds and cool nights around Victor were costing him two-thirds of his crop. That was when he decided to try greenhouse production. He bought a 30' x 90' metal-frame greenhouse kit, erected it himself, and installed an inflatable poly cover. A second-hand oil-fired furnace supplied the heat. An old attic fan furnished ventilation exhaust, and some used house fans moved air around inside the greenhouse. And not much has changed since then, except that Mike's tomato harvest has tripled.

Duda grows in soil, on raised beds. As he describes it: "We live in cattle country, so manure is easy to find. I use aged (three years) cow manure about two inches deep, dolimite lime, rock phosphate, and a little homemade wood ash. I use a soil test to gauge the amounts and hand-dig the beds. . . . I also fertilize with seabird guano every couple of weeks. I use drip tape for irrigation and tie the tomatoes to twine attached to the greenhouse for support.

"I start the tomatoes from seed on December 26. . . . Harvest starts the last week in May and continues through October. It peaks mid-June to mid-August, when we get 250 pounds a week.

"I use garden variety tomatoes, not greenhouse varieties. They're bred for shipping, not taste. I use Brandywine with good results, Oregon Spring with excellent results (they don't need pollination), and Sungold with excellent results (they produce until Thanksgiving).

"I spray with kelp weekly until the fruit set. It works well. You eventually get some disease, but it's near the end of the crop, so you tolerate it as long as you can, then remove [the diseased plants]. We do see a few aphids. I use soap spray when they get too bad. This year I'm going to try some beneficial insects; it's hard to spray effectively when the plants are big.

"We sell all of our tomatoes at the farmers' market, all at retail prices. It's good for us, and the customers love fresh tomatoes. This will be our sixth year for greenhouse tomatoes, and I can't imagine not having them. It's fun to be able to start gardening in the middle of winter, and tomatoes always sell well."

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Pollination

Tomato plants have both male and female reproductive organs on the same flower, so with a little help, each flower can self-pollinate. In the natural environment, wind and insects pollinate tomatoes. In a greenhouse environment, more attention must be paid to the pollination process to ensure maximum fruit set. Today, tomatoes are pollinated in greenhouses either by bumblebees or by mechanical pollinators.

Mechanical pollination is done with a battery-powered, hand-held pollinator or by electric vibrating benches. The hand-held pollinators are labor-intensive. Workers have to hand pollinate each plant two or three days each week during flowering. Vibration benches work on an automatic timer and do not require much labor after installation, but they are expensive and not cost-effective for small- to medium-scale growers.

Mechanical pollination of tomatoes was predominant in U.S. and Canadian greenhouses until the mid-90s, when the use of bumblebees was adopted from European growers. Today, most greenhouse tomato growers in North America are using bumblebees, which work every day of the week, selecting only the flowers that are ready to pollinate. Bumblebees can pollinate up to 30 flowers a minute. It is not unusual to have 100% pollination, which results in higher yields than are achieved with mechanical methods.(10)

Bumblebees are mild-mannered and easy to work with; they rarely sting without provocation. They start a new colony each year, with only a single queen hibernating over the winter. This queen then starts a new colony in the spring. By mid-summer the colony can number in the hundreds. At the end of the summer the bees begin to die out and the process starts over again. However, due to breakthroughs in bumblebee breeding, full-strength colonies of bumblebees are now available year round.

For commercial production, the bees are shipped by airfreight and placed in the greenhouse as the first flowers begin to open. Stocking rate varies from one hive for a small greenhouse to two to four hives per acre for larger facilities. The hives are usually replaced every 8 to 12 weeks as the colony begins to die out. There are two primary species of bees produced in Canada and the United States: Bombus occidentalis for the west and B. impatiens for the east. According to the USDA and AgCanada, the dividing line is at the 100th meridian, which runs through the middle of Texas, Oklahoma, Kansas, Nebraska, and the Dakotas. To avoid confusion, the USDA has classified these states as "eastern" states in the case of bees. Bees West, Inc., supplies western species, and Koppert Biological Systems, Inc., supplies eastern species.(10)

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Summary

A successful organic greenhouse tomato operation will require research into all aspects of the business. Before planting the first seed, it is important to locate a niche market in your area and schedule harvests to coincide with times of high market value. Soil systems have many advantages compared to soilless systems; however, they can be sources for soil-borne diseases such as Verticilium and Fusarium wilts. Maintaining rigorous pest control is key to maintaining a healthy, productive greenhouse operation. Successful pest control includes incorporating Integrated Pest Management practices, including cultural control methods, and the planting of disease resistant varieties. Organically grown seed must be used if available. If not, commercially available untreated seed may be used. All transplants, whether purchased or grown on the farm, must be grown using approved organic methods and inputs. Maintaining proper pH and fertilization levels improves disease resistance and increases yields. Using bumblebees for pollination can also increase yields and reduce labor costs.

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References

1) Snyder, Richard G. 1995. Greenhouse Tomatoes—The Basics of Successful Production. Proceedings of the Greenhouse Tomato Seminar. August 3-4, 1995. Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

2) Census of Agriculture. 1997. U.S. Census of Horticulture Specialties. Bureau of the Census, U.S. Department of Commerce, Washington, D.C.

3) Snyder, Rick. No date. Greenhouse Tomato Handbook. Mississippi State Extension Service. http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1828.htm.

4) Dr. Craig Anderson, Horticulture Extension Specialist, University of Arkansas, Personal communication, June 2001.

5) Jarvis, William R. 1992. Managing Diseases in Greenhouse Crops. The American Phytopathological Society, St. Paul, Minnesota. p. 148–149.

6) Wittwer, S. and S. Honma. 1979. Greenhouse Tomatoes, Lettuce & Cucumbers. Michigan State University Press, East Lansing. p. 72.

7) Grubinger, Vernon P. 1999. Sustainable Vegetable Production from Start-up to Market. NARES. New York, New York. p. 229–233.

8) Sanders, Doug. 1999. The Perfect Variety. American Vegetable Grower. Vol. 47, No. 12. p. 47-48.

9) Kessler, J. and Bridget Behe. 1998. Pansy Production and Marketing. ANR-596. Alabama Cooperative Extension.www.aces.edu/pubs/docs/A/ANR-0596/. 16 p.

10) Kueneman, Tom. 1995. The pollinator. Greenhouse Product News. Vol. 5, No. 9. p. 8, 10.

Resources

Organic Fertilizer Distributors

Agri-Growth International, Inc., www.agriorganics.com

Agri-Growth International, Inc. is a manufacturer of organic plant nutrients and stimulators. This website offers information on their products.Send e-mail to herb@agriorganics.com, or contact them at 1-780-484-0102 for a distributor listing in your area.

Alternative Garden Supply, www.alternativegarden.com/

Alternative Garden Supply offers a complete online store and a listing of retailers in your area. They carry a variety of liquid organic fertilizers such as Earth Juice, Fox Farm, Pure Blend, Maxicrop, and Age Old Organics.

Atlantis Hydroponics, 1035 Baxter Street, Athens, GA 30603, (706) 543-9980, Toll Free: (888) 305-4450, Fax: (706) 543-9919, info@atlantishydroponics.com, www.atlantishydroponics.com

Atlantis Hydroponics offers a wide range of organic fertilizers and stimulants: Alaska Start-up, Earth Juice, Fox Farm, Neptune's Harvest, Pure Blend, and others.

Greenfire, 347 Nord Ave. #1, Chico, CA 95926, (916) 895-8301, Fax: (916) 895-8317, www.greenfire.net/

Greenfire offers a wide range of organic fertilizers for both soil and soilless media. Greenfire is an Earth Juice distributor.

Growlight.com, sales@growlight.com, www.growlight.com/

Online catalog with a distributor list for retailers in your area. Organic products include B'Cuzz Growth, Root, and Bloom Stimulators; Nitrozime; and Age Old Organics Liquid Grow, Bloom, and Kelp.

Harvest Moon Hydroponics, www.hmoonhydro.com/

Harvest Moon Hydroponics offers a complete online store with a wide range of organic fertilizers and stimulants: including B'Cuzz, Earth Juice, Pure Blend, Superthrive, Nitron A-35, Grow Big, and Big Bloom. The website includes a list of Harvest Moon retailers in your area.

Home Harvest® Garden Supply, Inc., 3807 Bank Street, Baltimore, Maryland 21224, 1-800-348-4769, Voice: (410) 327-8403, Fax: (410) 327-8411,
ugrow@homeharvest.com, http://homeharvest.com/storeinfo.htm

Earth Juice, Fox Farm, and others.

HydroMall™, www.hydromall.com/infocart/Organic_Fertilizer/

HydroMall™ offers organic fertilizers from Agri-Growth International, Inc., such as: Myco-Net Biological Inoculum, Nutri-Max, and others. Order online from HydroMall™ or see their Stores Directory for a retail store near you.

Information on the Web

Budget for Greenhouse Tomatoes
Mississippi State University, Cooperative Extension Service
http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p2257.pdf

Dr. Mary Peet's Greenhouse Vegetable Production Website
North Carolina State University
http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/greenhouse_veg/resources/

Resource page with links to conversion tools, print information, and related Websites.

Environmental Control for Greenhouse Tomatoes
Mississippi State University, Cooperative Extension Service
http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1879.pdf

Florida Greenhouse Design
University of Florida, Cooperative Extension Service
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/scripts/htmlgen.exe?DOCUMENT_AE016

Greenhouse Tomato Handbook
Mississippi State University, Cooperative Extension Service
http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1828.htm

Greenhouse Tomato Production
Oregon State University, College of Agricultural Sciences
http://www.orst.edu/Dept/NWREC/tomatogh.html

Growing Hydroponic Tomatoes
The University of Arizona, College of Agriculture
http://ag.arizona.edu/hydroponictomatoes/index.htm

Tomato Disorders: A Guide to the Identification of Common Problems
Texas A&M University, Aggie Horticulture
http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/tomatoproblemsolver/index.html

North Carolina State's Greenhouse Food Production Website
North Carolina State University

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/greenhouse_veg/index.htm

Topics include cultural control, biological control, and organic production.

Starting A Greenhouse Business
Mississippi State University, Cooperative Extension Service
http://msucares.com/pubs/publications/p1957.htm

Starting Vegetable Transplants
Mississippi State University, Cooperative Extension Service
http://mscares.com/pubs/publications/p1995.htm

Texas Greenhouse Management Handbook
Texas A&M University, Aggie Horticulture

http://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/greenhouse/nursery/guides/green/

Tomato Plant Problems FAQ, by Kay Klier
http://is.rice.edu/~shel/tomato.html

An overview of tomato plant problems and organic cures.

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Appendix One: Problems in the Greenhouse

1. Major Fungal Diseases of Greenhouse Tomatoes
Name Damage Control
Early blight
Alternaria solani
Leaves have brown spots with concentric rings and yellow "halos"; Increases in warm, humid weather. Use resistant cultivar; Sanitation at season end; Mulching; Air circulation; Avoid water on leaves; Rotation; Copper spray.
Fusarium Crown & Root Rot Fusarium oxysporum sp. radicis-lycopersici Tops of plants wilt; Dark brown colored root rot at soil level; Stems may have red-brown vascular discoloration; Symptoms appear just before first pick. Use resistant varieties; Transplant when soil or media is 68°F or above; Remove first fruit to allow plant to recover.
Fusarium Wilt Fusarium oxysporum sp. lycopersici Clearing of veins and chlorosis of lower leaves; Wilting leaves and stems; Marginal necrosis of leaves and eventual defoliation; Roots may be stunted; Stems may have borwon discoloration; Prefers warm greenhouses. Use resistant varieties; Sterilize seed; Use of soilless media or hydroponics reduces incidence of disease; Use good sanitation practices; Avoid excessive warming of cultivation beds (keep below 82°F).
Gray Leaf Spot Stemphylium solani Older leaves affected first. Small brown to black spots on leaves, enlarging to gray centers that drop out to make several tiny holes in leaf. Use resistant varieties; Reduce humidity and increase air circulation; Keep canopy dry; Avoid water on leaves; Destroy infected plant material.
Gray Mold
Botrytis cinerea
Gray, velvety coating of spores on fruit, stems, and petioles. Thrives at temperatures below 65°F. Begins on flowers and spreads to fruit. Keep canopy dry; Avoid water on leaves; Reduce humidity (below 85%); Increase temperature and air circulation; Ventilate at night if possible.
Leaf Mold
Fulvia Fulva

(syn. Cladosporium fulvum)
Chlorotic (yellow-green) spots on upper surface of older leaves; Undersurface may have olive green spores; Spots merge to affect entire leaf; Prefers poorly ventilated, cool, humid conditions; Spreads by air, water, workers and insects; Affects soil or hydroponics. Good sanitation practices; Use resistant varieties; Proper row and plant spacing; Avoid excessive Nitrogen; Reduce humidity (below 85%) and increase air circulation (heated air); Avoid water on leaves; Burn or bury infected plant material; At season's end, remove and destroy all crop residue and sanitize greenhouse.
Powdery Mildew
Oidium lycopersicum
Leaves develop irregular, bright yellow blotches; Severe infections can kill leaves; Sunscald from leaf loss. Avoid water on leaves; Humidity control; Sulfur sprays; Biofungicide AQ10 (Ampelomyces quisqualis); Baking Soda (see ATTRA pub Use of Baking Soda as a Fungicide); Copper sprays.
Septoria Leaf Spot
Septoria lycopersici
Numerous small brown water-soaked spots on leaves, petioles & stems with gray or black centers; Leaves turn yellow and drop; Sunscald may occur; Spreads by wind, water, hands, tools & aphids; Favors warm, dry days and damp nights (85%-100% relative humidity). Rotation; Avoid water on leaves; Burn or bury infected plant material; Maintain optimum temperatures and humidity control; Aphid control (see ATTRA's Greenhouse IPM: Sustainable Aphid Control); Copper sprays.

 

2. Major Bacterial Diseases of Greenhouse Tomatoes
Name Damage Control
Bacterial Canker Clavibacter michiganensis pv. michiganensis Very contagious; Wilting lower leaflets; Older leaflets curl upwards and die from margin inward; Cankers may form on stems; Brown, dry, mealy pith in later stages; Small, raised white ""bird's eye spots"" on fruit; Spreads from infected seed (systemic) or tools, hands, insects, or splashing water (local); Infection is favored by warm, wet conditions. Use disease-free seed or sterilize seed in 130°F water for 25 minutes; Use drip irrigation to reduce splash; Reduce humidity and increase air circulation; Maintain optimum temperatures; Use sterilized soil or potting mixes; Disinfect benches, hoses, tools, etc. between crops; Sterilize or discard wooden stakes; Destroy infected plant material; Copper sprays.
Bacterial Speck Pseudomonas syringae pv. tomato Most severe in 3-5 leaf stage; Small, dark lesions with yellow rings on leaves; Superficial, brown, rough spots on fruit; Retards growth and delays fruit maturity; Spread by sprinkler irrigation; Infection is favored by cool, wet conditions. Use resistant cultivar; Use disease-free seed or sterilize seed in 130°F water for 25 minutes; Reduce humidity and increase air circulation; Maintain optimum temperatures (Bacterial Speck disappears with warmer temperatures); Use drip irrigation or mulch to reduce splash; Remove and destroy infested plants if severe; Copper sprays.

 

3. Major Insects Pests of Greenhouse Tomatoes
Name Damage Control
Aphid Sucks sap; Vectors disease; Creates honeydew which attracts sooty mold; Misshapen foliage, flowers, and fruit Insecticidal soap; Beneficial insects (ladybugs, lacewings, etc.) Beauvaria bassiana; Pyrethrum; Rotenone
*Fruitworm Feeds on foliage, flower, fruit Destroy infested fruit; Bt; Row covers; Neem; Ryania
*Pinworm Fruit has narrow black tunnels Destroy infested fruit; Till at season end to prevent overwintering; Sabadilla
Whitefly Distorted, yellow leaves; Honeydew which attracts sooty mold Insecticidal soap; Yellow sticky traps; Beneficial insects; Garlic oil; Pyrethrum; Rotenone; Beauveria bassiana
*Affects mostly field tomato crops but has also been known to infest greenhouse crops.

Back to top

Appendix Two: Recommended Fertilization Practices for Producing Organic Greenhouse Tomatoes
By Janet Miles

Janet Miles developed these recommendations as part of an M.S. thesis under the supervision of Dr. Mary Peet. The thesis is entitled: Organic, Biorational and Conventional Growing Systems for Greenhouse Tomatoes, 2000, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, NC.

For more information on this study and on organic production, visit the North Carolina Greenhouse Food Production website.

These recommendations were devised from studies performed on 'Grace' tomatoes—a variety bred specifically for greenhouse production, grown in 5 gallon upright plastic bags with soilless substrates in polyethylene greenhouses.

For current requirements for organically certified greenhouse vegetable production, consult the National Organic Program website. Draft recommendations for greenhouses are also available. For additional commercial materials which may be allowable for organic growers, consult the Organic Material Review Institute website. A list of suppliers of organic fertilizers and horticultural substrates is available from ATTRA.

This study was begun in 1998, before the initiation of national standards and with few potentially certifiable materials available. It can be used as a guideline for selecting and using organic fertilizers for greenhouse tomato production, but growers are advised to check the ATTRA and OMRI sites for new materials and with their certifying agency to see if particular materials are allowable.

Transplant Production:

1) Seeds: 4-7 days until first true leaves appear

a) Sow in sterile seedling mix
b) Place seed trays in a mist bed with bottom heat

i) Temperature: 75-80°F
ii) 16 hours fluorescent light

2) Transplant Seedlings: 4-6 weeks depending on Fall or Spring

a) 4" pots with peat or coir-based substrate
*note: We used a special mix provided by Faford which is equivalent to their commercial 4-P, but without the starter nutrient charge or wetting agent, which would not be acceptable for organic certification. (See Substrate Recipe in the Greenhouse Production section).
b) Nutrients:

i) Constant feed of fertilizer/water solution
ii) Earth Juice brand: This product is comprised of three different formulations. They also have a source of K2O and a source of micronutrients.

Grow: analysis 2-1-1. Ingredients: bat guano, Norwegian Sea Kelp, natural sulfate of potash, feather meal, oat bran, blood meal, and steamed bone meal.

Bloom: analysis 0-3-1. Ingredients: bat guano, Chilean sea bird guano, Norwegian Sea Kelp, natural sulfate of potash, steamed bone meal, oat bran, and rock phosphate.

Catalyst: analysis 0.03-0.01- 0.10. Ingredients: oat bran, kelp, wheat malt, molasses, and yeast.

Earth Juice Recipe
Mixed in 2 gal. water for direct fertilization:
(Not concentrated for injectors)
3 tbsp. Bloom
3 tbsp. Catalyst
5 tbsp. Grow
2 tbsp. K2O
* To provide 90 ppm N, 45 ppm P, and 195 ppm K.

iii) Magna Gro brand: HydroponicBase Mix analysis 2-3-6. Ingredients: poultry compost tea, pasteurized blood meal, calcium phosphate, and seaweed. This also contains trace minerals with fermented molasses in the form of Zn SO4, Mg SO4, and Fe SO4. 19% N from poultry compost tea and pasteurized blood meal. K-9: 9% K2O from seaweed. Organic forms of trace minerals supplied as 6% B, 6% Fe, 6% Mg, and 6% Ca.

Magna Gro Recipe
Mixed in 2 gal. water for direct
fertilization:
(Not concentrated for injectors)
2 tbsp. Hydroponic Base Mix
1/8 tsp. 19% N
1/3 tsp. 9% K
*To provide 90 ppm N, 45 ppm P, and 195 pp

Greenhouse Production:

1) Transplant when seedlings have 5-7 true leaves—BEFORE any flowers have opened.

2) 5 gal. plastic "grow bags" filled with peat or coir-based substrate that has not been amended with a starter nutrient charge or wetting agent, as these products are most likely from inorganic sources and not acceptable for use in organic production. We blended our own mix from commercial blend specially formulated to omit the wetting agent and starter charge.

  • 85% Fafard's Special Organic Mix1: Ingredients: Canadian sphagnum peat moss, vermiculite, perlite, gypsum, dolomitic lime, pine bark
  • 15% Vermicycle (commercial worm compost)
  • J.H. Biotech2 "Natural Wet" 2T./ gal.
  • 1.25 lbs./cu.yd. each, blood meal, bone meal, and potassium sulfate
  • ½ lb/cu. yd. elemental sulfur

Several commercial organic mixes are now available, but were not tested in this project. Sun Gro Horticulture, Inc., has a retail and professional line of soilless mixes which is OMRI approved. They can be used for transplanting or in containers. Sun Gro produces retail potting mixes under the Sunshine and other brands (Phone 888-896-1222). McEnroe Organic Farm, 194 Coleman Station Road, Millertown, NY 12546 (518-789-3252) offers both a light growing mix and a potting soil, which they suggest combining with vermiculite for a seed starting mix. You can also search for organic and OMRI-certified supplies at Peaceful Valley Farm Supply.

3) Nutrition:
*Note—Stage 1 = From transplant to the first fruit set
Stage 2 = From first fruit set to "topping" the plants—when they are about 6' tall
Stage 3 = From topping to the end of the crop

a) Fertigation using ½ gph emitters is ideal:
Stage 1: 6 minutes/cycle, 4 cycles/ day, to supply 0.89 liters/plant/day
Stage 2: 8 minutes/cycle, 4 cycles/ day, to supply 1.20 liters/plant/day
Stage 3: 13 minutes/cycle, 4 cycles/ day to supply 1.77 liters/plant/day
b) Commercial fertilizers should be formulated to provide the following N-P-K concentration

Stage 1 Stage 2 Stage 3
90 ppm N 125 ppm N 165 ppm N
45 ppm P 45 ppm P 45 ppm P
195 ppm K 195 ppm K 310 ppm K

i) Earth Juice™. In addition to products listed under the Organic Transplant Production section, they also have a product called:
"Microburst Three"—derived from sulfates of Magnesium, Cupric, Ferrous Manganese, Zinc, Borate, and Kelp to provide micronutrients. K2O is a 10% K source.

Recipe—Earth Juice: Stage 1
To make 1 gal. of stock to be injected at a rate of 50:1

1 qt. Grow
1 qt. Catalyst
2 c. Bloom
1½ c. 10% K2O

Recipe—Earth Juice: Stage 2
To make 1 gal. of stock to be injected at a rate of 50:1

1 qt. + 1¼ c. Grow
1 qt. + 1¼ c. Catalyst
1¼ c. Bloom
1¼ c. 10% K2O
½ c. Microburst Three

Recipe—Earth Juice: Stage 3
To make 1 gal. of stock to be injected at a rate of 50:1

1 qt. + 3 c. Grow
1 qt. + 3 c. Catalyst
¾ c. Bloom
2¼ c. 10% K2O
½ c. Microburst Three

ii) Magna Gro™
Recipe for Magna Gro: Stage 1
To make 1 gal. of stock to be injected at a rate of 50:1

1 qt. + ¼ c. Hydroponic Base Mix (HBM)
½ Tbsp. 19% N
¼ c. 9% K

Recipe for Magna Gro: Stage 2
To make 1 gal. of stock to be injected at a rate of 50:1

1 qt. + ¼ c. Hydroponic Base Mix (HBM)
1/3 c. 19% N
¼ c. 9% K

Recipe for Magna Gro: Stage 3
To make 1 gal. of stock to be injected at a rate of 50:1

1 qt. + ¼ c. Hydroponic Base Mix (HBM)
1 c. 19% N
2 c. 9% K

c) The start-up nutrient charge that was added to the growing medium will pro- vide enough nutrients to last 2-3 weeks after transplanting. At this time, plants will probably have progressed to Stage 2 of development.

 

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Citrus
موضوع: Horticulture دوشنبه 1385/04/26 4:8 قبل از ظهر

Citrus

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Jump to: navigation, search
?Citrus
Citrus reticulata
Citrus reticulata
Scientific classification
Kingdom: Plantae
Division: Magnoliophyta
Class: Magnoliopsida
Subclass: Rosidae
Order: Sapindales
Family: Rutaceae
Genus: Citrus
L.
Species & major hybrids

Species
Citrus maxima - Pomelo
Citrus medica - Citron
Citrus reticulata - Mandarin & Tangerine
Major hybrids
Citrus × sinensis - Sweet Orange
Citrus × aurantium - Bitter Orange
Citrus × paradisi - Grapefruit
Citrus × limon - Lemon
Citrus × latifolia - Persian lime
Citrus × aurantifolia - Key lime
See also main text for other hybrids

Citrus is a common term and genus of flowering plants in the family Rutaceae, originating in tropical and subtropical southeast Asia. The plants are large shrubs or small trees, reaching 5-15 m tall, with spiny shoots and alternately arranged evergreen leaves with an entire margin. The flowers are solitary or in small corymbs, each flower 2-4 cm diameter, with five (rarely four) white petals and numerous stamens; they are often very strongly scented. The fruit is a hesperidium, a specialised berry, globose to elongated, 4-30 cm long and 4-20 cm diameter, with a leathery rind surrounding segments filled with pulp vesicles. The genus is commercially important as many species are cultivated for their fruit, which are eaten fresh or pressed for juice.

Lemon, whole and in section
Enlarge
Lemon, whole and in section

Citrus fruits are notable for their fragrance, partly due to terpenes contained in the rind, and most are juice-laden. The juice contains a high quantity of citric acid giving them their characteristic sharp flavour. They are also good sources of vitamin C and flavonoids.

The taxonomy of the genus is complex and the precise number of natural species is unclear, as many of the species are thought to be of hybrid origin. Cultivated Citrus may be derived from as few as three ancestral species. Numerous natural and cultivated origin hybrids include commercially important fruit such as the orange, lemon, grapefruit, and some tangerines. Recent research has suggested that the closely related genus Fortunella, and perhaps also Poncirus and the Australian genera Microcitrus and Eremocitrus, should be included in Citrus. In fact, most botanists now classify Microcitrus, and Eremocitrus as part of the genus Citrus.

Contents

[hide]

Cultivation

Further information: Citrus production

As citrus trees hybridise very readily (e.g., seeds grown from limes can produce fruit similar to grapefruit), all commercial citrus cultivation uses trees produced by grafting the desired fruiting cultivars onto rootstocks selected for disease resistance and hardiness.

The colour of citrus fruits only develops in climates with a cool winter. In tropical regions with no winter, citrus fruits remain green until maturity, hence the tropical "green orange". The lime plant in particular is extremely sensitive to cool conditions, thus it is usually never exposed to cool enough conditions to develop a colour. If they are left in a cool place over winter, the fruits will actually change to a yellow colour. Many citrus fruits are picked while still green, and ripened while in transit to supermarkets.

Citrus fruits
Enlarge
Citrus fruits

Citrus trees are not generally frost hardy. Citrus reticulata tends to be the hardiest of the common Citrus species and can withstand short periods down to as cold as −10 °C, but realistically temperatures not falling below −2 °C are required for successful cultivation. A few hardy hybrids can withstand temperatures well below freezing, but do not produce quality fruit. A related plant, the Trifoliate orange (Poncirus trifoliata) can survive below −20 °C; its fruit are astringent and inedible unless cooked.

The trees do best in a consistently sunny, humid environment with fertile soil and adequate rainfall or irrigation. Though broadleaves, they are evergreen and do not drop leaves except when stressed. The trees flower in the spring, and fruit is set shortly afterward. Fruit begins to ripen in fall or early winter months, depending on cultivar, and develops increasing sweetness afterward. Some culivars of tangerines ripen by winter. Some, such as the grapefruit, may take up to eighteen months to ripen.

Major commercial citrus growing areas include southern China, the Mediterranean region, South Africa, Australia, the southernmost United States, and parts of South America. In the U.S., Florida, Texas, and California are major producers, while smaller plantings are present in other Sun Belt states.

Citrus trees grown in tubs and wintered under cover were a feature of Renaissance gardens, once glass-making technology enabled sufficient expanses of clear glass to be produced. The Orangerie at the Palace of the Louvre, 1617, inspired imitations that were not eclipsed until the development of the modern greenhouse in the 1840s. An orangery was a feature of royal and aristocratic residences through the 17th and 18th centuries. In the United States the earliest surviving orangery is at the Tayloe House, Mount Airy, Virginia.

Some modern hobbyists still grow dwarf citrus in containers or greenhouses in areas where it is too cold to grow it outdoors. Consistent climate, sufficient sunlight, and proper watering are crucial if the trees are to thrive and produce fruit. For cooler areas, lime and lemon should not be grown, since they are more sensitive to cold than other citrus fruits. Tangerines, tangors and yuzu can be grown outside even in regions with sub-zero winters, although this may affect fruit quality. Hybrids with kumquats (citrofortunella) have good cold resistance.

Pests and diseases

Citrus plants are very liable to infestation by aphids, whitefly and scale insects. Also rather important are the viral infections to which some of these ectoparasites serve as vectors such as the aphid-transmited Citrus tristeza virus which when unchecked by proper methods of control is very devastating to citrine plantations. The foliage is also used as a food plant by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species including Common Emerald, Double-striped Pug, Giant Leopard Moth, Hypercompe eridanus, Hypercompe icasia and Hypercompe indecisa.

Uses

Culinary

Many citrus fruits, such as oranges, tangerines, grapefruits, and clementines, are generally eaten fresh. They are typically peeled and can be easily split into segments. Grapefruit is more commonly halved and eaten out of the skin with a utensil. Orange and grapefruit juices are also very popular breakfast beverages. More astringent citrus, such as lemons and limes are generally not eaten on their own. Lemonade or limeade are popular beverages prepared by diluting the juices of these fruits and adding sugar. Lemons and limes are also used as garnishes or in cooked dishes. Their juice is used as an ingredient in a variety of dishes, it can commonly be found in salad dressings and squeezed over cooked meat or vegetables. A variety of flavours can be derived from different parts and treatments of citrus fruits. The rind and oil of the fruit is generally very bitter, especially when cooked. The fruit pulp can vary from sweet and tart to extremely sour. Marmalade, a condiment derived from cooked orange and lemon, can be especially bitter. Lemon or lime is commonly used as a garnish for water, soft drinks, or cocktails. Citrus juices, rinds, or slices are used in a variety of mixed drinks.

Medical

Citrus juice also has medical uses - the lemon juice is used to cure bee stings. The orange is also used in Vitamin C pills.

History

Prior to human cultivation, the genus Citrus originated in Southeast Asia and consisted of just a few species:

List of citrus fruits

Pair of Lemons
Enlarge
Pair of Lemons

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Citrus

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pomelo
موضوع: Horticulture دوشنبه 1385/04/26 3:58 قبل از ظهر

Pomelo

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

(Redirected from Citrus maxima)
Jump to: navigation, search
?Pomelo

Scientific classification
Kingdom: Plantae
Division: Magnoliophyta
Class: Magnoliopsida
Subclass: Rosidae
Order: Sapindales
Family: Rutaceae
Genus: Citrus
Species: C. maxima
Binomial name
Citrus maxima
Merr.

The pomelo (or pummelo, pommelo, jabong, or shaddock), Citrus maxima (Merr., Burm. f.), also Citrus grandis (L.), is a citrus fruit, usually a pale green to yellow when ripe, larger than a grapefruit, with sweet flesh and thick spongy rind.

Cultivation and uses

The pomelo is native to southeastern Asia and all of Malaysia and grows wild on river banks in the Fiji and Tonga. It may have been introduced into China around 100 B.C. It is much cultivated in southern China (Jiangsu, Jiangxi and Fujian Provinces) and especially in central Thailand on the banks to the Tha Chin River; also in Taiwan and southernmost Japan, southern India, Bangladesh, Vietnam, Malaysia, Indonesia, New Guinea and Tahiti. It is also grown commercially elsewhere, particularly California and Israel.

The pomelo is also called shaddock after an English sea captain, Captain Shaddock, who introduced the seed to the West Indies in the 17th Century from the Malay Archipelago. In the Pacific and Asia, it is known as the jabong and in Chinese it is called yòuzi (柚子).

The pulp color ranges between clear pale yellow to pink to red, and tastes like a sweet, mild grapefruit. It is the largest citrus fruit, growing as large as 30 cm in diameter and weighing as much as 10 kg; the peel is thick, and sometimes used to make marmalade.

The grapefruit is a hybrid between the pomelo and the orange. In some markets, grapefruits or pomelo/grapefruit crosses will also be sold as "pomelo" or "pummelo".

The tangelo is a hybrid between the pomelo and the tangerine. It has a thicker skin than a tangerine and is less sweet.

It can usually be found in grocery stores in the United States from the late fall until early spring and is sometimes thought of as a Christmas fruit.

The peel of the pomelo is also used in Chinese cooking or candied. In general citrus peel is often used in southern Chinese cuisine for flavouring, especially in sweet soup desserts.

See also

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Strawberries
موضوع: Horticulture جمعه 1385/02/22 1:7 قبل از ظهر

Strawberries: Organic and IPM Options
Horticulture Production Guide

 

 

ATTRA - National Sustainable Agriculture Information Service
PO Box 3657
Fayetteville, AR  72702
Phone: 1-800-346-9140 --- FAX: (479) 442-9842

By Guy Ames, Holly Born, and Martin Guerena
NCAT Agriculture Specialists
March 2003
The PDF version of this document is available at
http://www.attra.org/attra-pub/PDF/strawberry.pdf
28 pages — 411 kb

Abstract: This publication provides an overview of organic strawberry production methods. It also covers integrated pest management and weed control techniques that can reduce pesticide use in conventional strawberry production. Included are discussions of weeds, pests, diseases, greenhouse production, plasticulture, fertility, economics, and marketing, and lists of further resources, both electronic and print.

Table of Contents


Introduction
Planting Systems
Varieties
Fertility
Weed Control
Insect and Mite Control
Disease Control
Greenhouse Production
Alternatives to Methyl Bromide
Harvest and Postharvest
Economics
Marketing
References
Print Resources
Electronic Resources
Plant Sources
Appendix: Recommended Strawberry Varieties by State

Introduction


In most areas of the United States, strawberries are a viable crop. Cultivars have been developed to suit most agro-climatic conditions. In many locations, demand for locally produced berries far exceeds available supplies; small-scale producers can thus get higher returns from strawberries than from most other crops.

Organically grown berries may command a price premium. Organic production excludes the use of synthetic fertilizers and pesticides, and requires soil building and biological pest control. The federal Organic standards restrict claims of "organically grown" to those farms that are certified organic by a USDA-accredited certification agency. For more information, request the ATTRA publication Organic Farm Certification and The National Organic Program.

While this publication describes organic practices, it also mentions materials that are acceptable in a conventional IPM system but prohibited for use on organic farms. Organic growers are advised to consult their certifier before applying any material, whether it's described in this publication as "organic" or not.

Excellent cultural information for conventional strawberry production—planting systems, pest control, cultivar recommendations, etc.—can be obtained from the Cooperative Extension Service in most states (also see Print Resources below). ATTRA's Overview of Organic Fruit Production provides general information on organic weed control, organic fertilization, and some basic considerations for organic disease and pest control. This publication will cover problems specific to strawberries and will offer organically acceptable solutions, as well as some integrated pest management (IPM) strategies and other reduced-chemical options. We have not attempted to develop a one-size-fits-all prescription for organic (or other ecologically based) strawberry production. Rather we have introduced the most common challenges and offered some possible solutions and factors for consideration.

Many large-scale strawberry growers have begun reducing their reliance on synthetic pesticides by incorporating the latest advances in IPM. Innovative weed-control methods promise to reduce herbicide use while maintaining or increasing organic matter. These reduced-chemical systems will be discussed alongside organic systems in this production guide.

The Agriculture Land Base Training Association(ALBA) farm, Salina, CA
The Agriculture Land Base Training Association (ALBA) farm, Salina, CA

For many years, conventional strawberry growers have routinely used the soil fumigant methyl bromide to control weeds, soil-borne diseases, nematodes, and soil-dwelling insects. Current legislation calls for a 70% reduction in methyl bromide use by 2003, and a total phase-out by 2005 (1). This change promises to radically alter the way strawberries are grown by some of the nation's largest producers. Researchers and growers alike are experimenting with various chemicals and techniques to replace methyl bromide; some of these are described below in a section on Alternatives to Methyl Bromide.

 

Planting Systems


Planting systems for strawberries vary depending on the environment and the production goals. The grower must decide the relative priorities of yield, size, flavor, or other qualities of the fruit, and seek a system that balances these goals. Systems that focus primarily on yield are the least sustainable because of the enormous amount of energy used in the form of maintenance, plastic, and transportation. In many of these systems the plants are grown on raised beds as annuals. This results in removal of the plants, plastic mulch, and irrigation system at the end of every season. Regardless of the system used, conventional yields are usually higher than organic yields. However, studies have shown that organic producers can earn more profit per acre than conventional producers (2).

Raised Bed Plasticulture
Conventional growers in California and Florida, where most strawberries are produced, tend to favor this system. They grow plants as annuals, transplanting strawberry crowns in the late summer or early fall. Production starts in the late winter and continues through the summer and into late fall, depending on the area and the varieties grown. In some cases, the raised beds are fumigated with methyl bromide and chloropicrin, and the plastic mulch serves to seal the fumigant in the bed for three to four days. Next, planting holes are punched through the plastic, aerating the beds for a couple of days before the strawberry crowns are planted. Many organic growers in California and Florida also use this plasticulture system. Of course, methyl bromide is not allowed in organic production, so crop rotation is critical to control soil-borne diseases and pests.

Two types of raised beds are used in these intensive systems. Narrow beds have two rows of plants with one drip line running between them. The distance between beds averages 40 inches. Drip tape is buried at a depth of about 2½ inches. Wide beds usually have four rows of plants and two drip lines, with 64 inches between beds. Spacing between plants in both types of bed averages 12 to 14 inches.

Plastic mulch is used in both types of bed and can vary from a single strip of plastic laid between the plants to full bed coverage where holes must be punched for the plant to develop. Some conventional growers in California use clear plastic, which warms the bed faster, stimulating early-season growth; these growers use fumigation to control most weeds. Black plastic is used in organic production, primarily for weed control. Because the black plastic prevents the sun's rays from penetrating them, the beds remain cool, resulting in slower initial growth of the plants and reduced irrigation frequency compared to clear plastic mulch. There are dark plastic mulches on the market that selectively permit soil-warming radiation to penetrate while eliminating the light rays that promote weed growth. This type of plastic is preferred by growers in the Southeast.

The raised beds provide good drainage. Because they make the flowers and fruit easier to see and reach, raised beds also help growers to forecast yields and make harvesting easier and faster. Some growers dig the furrows between the beds deep so that harvesters will not have to stoop very low to search for the fruit. In cold climates, plants in raised beds may be prone to freeze damage. Still, raised beds will usually out-produce flat beds. Because of increased aeration and protection from splashing soil particles, plants in plastic-mulched raised beds have less disease.

Machinery is available that will shape the bed, lay out the irrigation line, and cover with plastic mulch all in one pass. Sources of bed-shapers and transplanters are listed in the ATTRA publication Season Extension Techniques for Market Gardeners.

Regarding varieties, recent research indicates that any variety that normally does well in a specific region will do well under plasticulture in that region (3). However, some of the cultivars that come from the California and Florida systems perform best at 12- to 14-inch spacing, while many northern cultivars do best at 8- to 10-inch spacing.

By now, growers and researchers in many states have adapted and validated at least parts of the production model described above. Growers should check with their state Extension Fruit Specialist to see if specific plasticulture guidelines are available for their area. Otherwise, a complimentary copy of Nourse Farms Success with Plasticulture can be obtained by calling Nourse Farms at 413-665-2658.

Plasticulture, Sustainability, and Organic Farming

Plasticulture is not without its serious critics. The plastic has to come from somewhere, and it has to be disposed of at the end of the one- to three-year production cycle. Clearly, the critics say, this is not an environmentally sustainable system. And, says Dr. Marvin Pritts (4), Cornell University fruit researcher, if you consider all the environmental costs to society, neither is it economically sustainable in the long run. Pritts also points out that even more plastic—in the form of row covers, tunnels, hoop houses, etc.—is needed to make the system work in cold climates.

USDA researchers have shown that fields mulched with plastic cause four times more water runoff than fields mulched with organic materials. Because of this high rate of runoff, fields mulched in plastic suffer up to 15 times more soil erosion than fields mulched with organic matter (5). Planting grasses or other types of vegetation along the drainage ditches can reduce the rate of erosion, and provide habitat for beneficial insects.

And yet, even organic growers, especially those in California where plasticulture has reigned the longest, are buying into the plasticulture production model. Why? The answer is weeds. Strawberries are notoriously prone to weed encroachment and resultant loss of productivity. Plasticulture provides good to excellent weed control without herbicides.

Are there alternatives? Pritts and others are working on them. One of Pritts's chief areas of strawberry research is groundcover management for weed control with few or no herbicides. His research is summarized below. One type of system Pritts is exploring uses relatively small amounts of post-emergent, grass-specific herbicide to knock back planted rye, Sudan, or other grasses, effectively producing a "killed mulch" in place. Other systems use no herbicide at all, only mowing to knock back the ground cover.

Pritts admits that implementing some of these ideas requires well-informed and committed management. Moreover, each locale may require fine-tuning to get the right mix of groundcovers and the right timing for planting, mowing, and other manipulations. It's probably not going to be as easy as rolling out the plastic sheeting. Nevertheless, using small amounts of post-emergent herbicide, though not allowed in organic production, may be more sustainable than the continued use of tons upon tons of non-renewable, non-recyclable plastic mulch. Corn- and soybean-based biodegradable plastics are being developed but it will be a while before a sturdy and durable biodegradable plastic that can withstand solar radiation, moisture, and equipment is available for strawberry production.

Matted Row System
In this system the crowns are planted in early spring. As the plants produce flowers, the blossoms are removed to encourage runner (or daughter plant) production. The daughters root on the bed and produce a crop the following spring. Weeds can be a problem in this system, and dead leaves and other debris must be removed to reduce disease and pest problems. However, once established, this system can produce for three to four years, depending on the pest pressures. Distance between plants is 18-24 inches, and distance between the rows varies from 36 to 50 inches depending on the cultivation equipment used. According to Marvin Pritts of Cornell University, the matted row system offers northern strawberry growers a low-risk system that requires less focus and time than annual plasticulture systems (6).

Ribbon Row System
This system can employ high-density or low-density planting on a single row. With low-density planting, the spacing is 12-36 inches between rows and 14-18 inches between plants. With high-density planting, the distance between the rows is the same but the distance between plants varies between 4 and 12 inches. The crowns are planted in the fall. Once they start blooming, the flowers are not removed, and fruit is produced in the first season. Runners are removed to stimulate flower formation and increase fruit size. At the end of the second season the planting can be changed to the matted row system by letting the runners fill in empty spaces on the bed.

 

Varieties


Selection of appropriate varieties is important. Besides determining yields and quality, the variety also determines production seasons and pest-control practices. Your county extension agent can usually recommend varieties that have been shown to respond well to the area's climatic conditions. However, variety trials are usually done in conventional production systems. The variety's performance may be different in an organic system. Therefore, organic growers are advised to plant more than one of the recommended varieties and conduct their own variety trials. Other organic growers in your area may also be able to advise you.

Strawberry varieties are classified as either "June-bearing" or "Everbearing". June-bearing or short-day varieties start forming flower buds as the day length gets shorter and temperatures get cooler. Everbearing or day-neutral varieties are insensitive to day length and produce fruit throughout the season as long as night-time temperatures drop below 60°F (7).

See the Appendix for a list of recommended strawberry varieties by state.

'Honeoye' for Organic Strawberry Production in the Northeast
Source: Greg and Pat Williams, HortIdeas, September 2002, p. 101.

"Based on field trials comparing yields, pest damage, and net profits of conventionally and organically grown strawberries, using dayneutrals 'Tribute' and 'Tristar', 'Honeoye', and 'Earliglow', entomologists at Cornell University say that 'Honeoye' is 'highly suitable' for organic methods. 'Honeoye' produced larger yields and suffered less damage from tarnished plant bugs than the other cultivars. The paper referenced below provides a good overview (and plenty of references relevant to) organic strawberry production in the northeastern U.S."

Marc Rhainds (Dept. of Entomology, New York State Agriculture Experimental Station, Cornell University, Geneva, NY 14456), Joe Kovach, and Greg English-Loeb, "Impact of Strawberry Cultivar and Incidence of Pests on Yield and Profitability of Strawberries under Conventional and Organic Management Systems," Biological Agriculture and Horticulture 19(4), 2002, p. 333-353. (A B Academic Publishers, P.O. Box 42, Bicester, Oxon OX26 6NW, England.)

 

Fertility


As mentioned above, ATTRA's Overview of Organic Fruit Production covers organic fertility management in a general way. However, there are at least two aspects of strawberry production that are unique and distinct from other perennial fruits with respect to fertility.

First, June-bearing strawberries set buds for the following year's fruit in the fall. (Most perennial fruit crops set their fruit buds in the spring or early summer.) To get a good bud set, the plants must have adequate chilling and not be nutritionally stressed. Therefore, a fertilizer application is usually warranted in the late summer, giving the organic fertilizer material enough time to break down and provide nutrients for the plants during the crucial fall bud-set. Day-neutral strawberries set fruit buds throughout the growing season, and therefore need to have adequate nutrition provided for the entire period. Producers using the annual raised-bed or plasticulture system must rely on the nurseries that supply the strawberry crowns to adequately fertilize the plants for fall planting. (The nurseries that provide strawberry crowns on a large scale use conventional pesticides and fertilizers in growing them; these crowns are acceptable for organic production only if no organic sources of strawberry crowns can be found. Certifiers require that growers document their search for certified organic planting material.)

Second, while all perennial fruit crops will benefit from the fertility provided by pre-plant cover-cropping and green-manuring, strawberries are so prone to weed problems that pre-plant preparations to reduce weed pressure are practically mandatory in organic production. A thick cover crop (or two in succession) of a grass/legume mix will help to smother out many weeds and will provide important long-term improvements in soil fertility and soil organic matter. In areas such as coastal California, long growing seasons and high rents may make the extended use of cover crops uneconomical. However, many growers believe that the long-term benefits of cover crops and rotations to fertility management and pest and disease suppression are worth the cost. Compost can be used as a supplement or an alternative. Spreading and incorporating the compost on the beds only, avoiding the furrows, will help concentrate fertility where it is most needed. Ten to 15 tons per acre of compost is recommended. If this volume is not available, more frequent supplemental fertigation will be necessary.

Organic growers using black plastic or fabric mulches will also find it useful to make a heavy application of compost during bed preparation to provide fertility. Subsequent fertility needs can be met through fertigating with appropriate soluble organic fertilizers such as seaweed-fish blends or, to a limited degree, with foliar applications of soluble organic fertilizers. For more information, request ATTRA's Sources of Organic Fertilizers and Amendments.

 

Weed Control


Weeds are one of the biggest problems that organic strawberry growers face. Pre-plant site preparation is critical. Refer to ATTRA's Overview of Organic Fruit Production for site preparation strategies as well as for basic weed-control ideas.

Cultural
Organic growers will find that some hand weeding is necessary. It is quite possible for weeds to become troublesome in plasticulture systems, especially in organic plantings that haven't been fumigated. In such situations, the weeds emerge from the same planting holes made for the strawberry plant. The rows must be straight and the plastic laid precisely to allow mechanical cultivation of the furrows without damaging the beds and plastic.

The matted row system (where plants from runners form a 6- to 30-inch-wide solid bed) is commonly used by strawberry growers in many regions of the U.S. This method precludes mechanical cultivation for weed control within the bed, though cultivation is commonly used to renovate or narrow a bed. Weed problems tend to increase with the age of the planting. Many organic growers have therefore chosen shorter fruiting rotations. That is, a bed may be allowed to fruit for two seasons before it is turned under and replanted to a cover crop.

Mechanical
European strawberry growers and researchers have led the way in innovations and research involving mechanical weed control in strawberries. Recent research in the U.S. has confirmed the usefulness of the flex-tine harrow, the brush hoe, and the finger weeder for weeding strawberry plantings. For instance, the brush hoe required only three passes per season plus two hand weedings for complete weed control, compared to standard cultivation with a rototiller, which required three passes and four hand weedings (8). Visit the European Weed Research Society's Physical Weed Control web page for more information on these and other mechanical cultivation tools. In plasticulture systems, harvest crews are sometimes used to weed when the weed pressure is high or when the harvest day is short.

Biological
Before the widespread adoption of herbicides, geese were commonly used for weed control in commercial-scale strawberry production. In areas of concentrated crop production, farmers often had the benefit of weeder-geese services for hire. Weeder geese can still be used to control grasses and a few broadleaf weeds, but close management of the geese is essential. Not every farmer will find the extra requirements suitable to his or her management regimen. The extra work may be offset to some degree by on-farm consumption of the geese or by sales of geese and their products. In any case, the geese must be removed before fruiting season, because they will eat strawberries before going after grass. Also, under the National Organic Program, raw animal manure must be composted unless it is incorporated into the soil not less than 120 days prior to harvest of a crop whose edible portion has direct contact with the soil surface or soil particles. Therefore, geese would need to be removed from the field and their manure incorporated at least 4 months prior to the beginning of strawberry harvest. ATTRA has more information on the proper management of weeder geese available on request.

Organic mulches
Strawberry plants, especially in the North, are commonly mulched with straw over the winter to minimize cold damage. In the spring, the straw is raked into the aisles where it provides some control of weeds and helps to keep the berries clean. Caution must be taken with some organic mulches in that they may harbor pests like snails, slugs, cutworms, earwigs, and sow bugs. On the other hand, straw provides excellent habitat for spiders and has been known to reduce diseases.

Research in West Virginia indicates that shredded or chopped newsprint makes an excellent, safe mulch (9). It can be applied over the top of the plants at the outset of winter, just like straw. Apply it 4-5 inches thick (this will require about 500-600 pounds of chopped paper per 1,000 square feet). The newsprint mulch is subject to being windblown until it is stabilized by rain or overhead irrigation. Only newspaper or other recycled paper, without glossy or colored inks, may be used as mulch under the National Organic Program standards.

Living and killed mulches
Cornell small-fruit researchers Marvin Pritts and Mary Jo Kelly (8) have looked extensively at using cover crops for weed suppression in strawberries. They tried several species—including tall fescue, marigold, buckwheat, and ryegrass—but sudangrass seemed to combine the most desirable characteristics: rapid establishment, low water use, low nutrient use, and competitive displacement of weeds. Their research suggests that interseeding sudangrass and mowing it twice a year provides acceptable weed control without herbicides, especially when used in conjunction with a winter straw mulch.

Herbicide-killed mulches offer non-organic growers the opportunity to practically grow mulches in place. There are two basic types of desiccated mulch systems-one pre-plant and one post-plant. The pre-plant system employs a cover crop (grass, legumes, forbs, or a mix) and glyphosate (Roundup®) to create a no-till mulch, often just in foot-wide strips where the strawberry plants are to be set out.

The post-plant system employs grass cover crops between rows or even within the row and a grass-specific herbicide such as sethoxydim (Poast®) or fluazifop-butyl (Fusilade®) to kill the grass. The strawberry plants are unaffected by these herbicides. Chemically killed mulches can allow organic matter to be maintained and potentially increased during the cropping sequence. Another plus is that some grasses, including common ryegrass, suppress annual weeds allelopathically (in other words, these grasses exude chemicals that keep other plants from growing near them). The herbicidal desiccation apparently does not reduce the allelopathic effect.

In USDA zones 6 and colder, another option is to plant spring oats in the fall. Freezing weather will kill the oats, leaving a nice mulch. Yet another option is to plant sorghum-Sudan grass in the late summer; it is not at all cold tolerant, and will be killed by the first frost. For information on the USDA's hardiness zones check their website.

Steam
Technology is evolving that allows for weed management with steam. The tools are similar to those for flame weeding (see the ATTRA publication on flame weeding). Steam is directed onto weeds, and they wilt. This is distinct from steam sterilization of soil, discussed later in the section Alternatives to Methyl Bromide.

While the technology currently exists, it is still too expensive for most growers to consider. However, cooperative ownership or perhaps further technological innovation could render it more affordable. For a full discussion of the technology, applications, and economics, see the article Full Analysis: The Use of Steam as an Alternative Herbicide.

Corn gluten
Researchers at Iowa State discovered a few years ago that a by-product of corn milling, corn gluten, inhibited the germination of certain weed seeds, especially grasses. Corn gluten's high nitrogen content also makes it an effective fertilizer. Though ineffective against many perennial weeds, corn gluten has been shown to be helpful in controlling certain weeds in strawberry plantings.

However, research at Cornell University indicates that in wet years or predictably wet climates, corn gluten may actually favor weeds. Evidently, in wet conditions, the herbicidal component of the gluten is leached out of the soil, but the nitrogen remains long enough to fertilize the weeds (8).

Vinegar Herbicide
The use of vinegar for weed control has been the least-toxic choice of many home gardeners. Its effectiveness varies on the type of weeds sprayed and the concentration of acetic acid. Most vinegar available commercially is 5% acetic acid. Through distillation the concentration can increase to 15% and by other non-synthetic processes to 30% acetic acid. Caution must be taken with formulations greater than 5%. There are more concentrated solutions of acetic acid that are derived synthetically; these types are not allowed in organic production systems. Some commercial formulations of vinegar herbicide include lemon juice or citrus oil. The mode of action consists of the acidic solution degrading the leaf's waxy cuticle layer, causing desiccation. The thicker the cuticle layer on the weeds, the more frequent the applications or the more concentrated the solution should be. If preparing a homemade solution of vinegar herbicide, include citrus oil or juice along with a small amount of liquid soap as a surfactant. Be careful when spraying weeds and keep the spray off the strawberry plants. For more information on vinegar as an herbicide check the USDA website.

Woven synthetic fabric mulches
Synthetic fabric mulches (trade names: Weed Lock, Weed Barrier, Weed Stopper, et al.) offer some of the same weed suppression as regular plastic mulch, but add the advantage of being water- and air-permeable. Though initially more expensive than regular plastic, the higher-quality grades of the fabric mulches can be used year after year. These woven mulches are used in essentially the same way as the plasticulture systems described above. However, because they are water-permeable, it should not be necessary to add irrigation lines under the mulch in areas with adequate rainfall.

 

Insect and Mite Control


Numerous types of insects feed on strawberry plants and threaten yields. Extension Service specialists are familiar with pests common to specific areas and can help with proper identification, which is the first step in pest management. A scouting program with regular monitoring can help the grower determine the pest pressure and the presence of beneficial insects. Once the pest pressure reaches the economic threshold level, control actions are necessary. If biological controls are to be used, they must be deployed before the pests reach critical levels. That is why monitoring is so important. In large operations where harvest crews are used regularly, training the crew foreman to identify insect pests and diseases can help in the monitoring process.

Beneficial-insect habitats planted alongside strawberry fields provide shelter, pollen, and nectar sources to predators and parasites of insect pests, and give them refuge when the fields are treated with a pesticide. When purchased beneficial insects are released, these habitats will encourage the beneficials to remain and continue their lifecycle, helping reduce the pest population. Some pests may also inhabit the refuge along with beneficials, so it's important to monitor these habitats. (Some growers have used a "bug vacuum" to remove lygus bugs that have concentrated in a habitat planting.) For additional information see ATTRA's Biointensive Integrated Pest Management and Farmscaping to Enhance Biological Control.

Although pest problems vary with the production location, common strawberry pests include white grubs, strawberry weevils, strawberry rootworms, lygus bugs, and spider mites. For more detailed information on the pests themselves, refer to the publications listed in the Print Resources section below (see especially the publications by Funt et al. [1997], Maas [1987], Strand [1993], and Kovach et al. [1990]).

White grubs
Primarily a problem in the eastern U.S., white grubs can cause serious damage if strawberries are planted immediately after a sod crop. White grubs are the larvae of May and June beetles and other beetles in the Scarabaeidae family. Late-summer or early-fall plowing destroys many larvae, pupae, and adults in the soil and also exposes these stages to predators. The milky-spore-disease bacteria Bacillus popillae and Bacillus lentimorbus are important natural enemies of Scarab beetles, killing the grub stage. Grubs ingest spores on the thatch or roots of the grass they eat. The bacteria multiply inside the grubs, which then die and disintegrate, leaving many viable spores to spread the disease to succeeding generations (10).

Beneficial nematodes are also effective against soil-dwelling grubs. Steinernema carpocapsae will infect its host near the soil surface while Heterorhabditus bacteriophora actively searches for its host below the soil surface (11). These nematodes and milky-spore bacteria are widely available through mail-order garden supply companies.

Strawberry clipper (strawberry bud weevil)
The strawberry clipper or bud weevil, Anthonomus signatus, occurs only east of the Rockies. Adult beetles emerge in the early spring, lay eggs in the buds, and then cut partly through the stem, causing strawberry buds to fall over or fall to the ground.

Though it was once considered a major pest, recent research indicates that this insect can be largely ignored in most situations (12). Even though the clipper is removing flower buds, it appears that the remaining buds compensate by producing larger fruit, resulting in no overall loss in yield. Moreover, the clipper moves at the very slow rate of 30 feet per season. In a new planting, it is unlikely that the damage would extend more than 30 feet from the perimeter into the planting. Damage may be somewhat more extensive in older plantings, but still limited by the rate of movement of the clippers (they would be approximately 60 feet into a 2-year planting and 90 feet into a 3-year planting). Organic growers can destroy damaged buds, which contain eggs; eliminate trash and nearby foliage that provide hibernation sites for adult weevils; and apply a botanical insecticide registered for use on strawberries.

Strawberry rootworm
Strawberry rootworm (Paria fragariae) adults feed on leaves, mainly at night, making holes in the leaves. The larvae feed on fine roots and eat off crowns close to the ground. Cultural control consists of plowing infested fields after harvest and setting new plantings away from woods (favorable hibernation sites) and from older strawberry plantings.

Apparently, IPM damage thresholds have not been established for the rootworm. If the grower feels that pesticide treatment is necessary based on past history, treatment should be aimed at the foliar-feeding adults, since there are no effective or registered insecticides available for control of the larvae.

Lygus bugs
Lygus nymphs
Lygus nymphs
The tarnished plant bug or lygus bug (primarily Lygus lineolaris in the East and L. hesperus in the West) can be troublesome, especially in plantings of day-neutral types, which fruit throughout the growing season. Adults and nymphs (the nymphs cause the most damage) suck sap from the plant and inject a toxic saliva. This feeding results in a characteristic deformation of the fruits, called cat-facing, which makes the berries unusable and unmarketable.

Keeping the groundcover well clipped for a distance of five to ten yards around the production site, and otherwise destroying places favorable for hibernation, may help reduce lygus-bug populations. Adult lygus bugs hibernate under leaves, stones, and bark. They usually lay eggs in the stems of herbaceous cultivated plants and broadleaf weeds. Legumes (vetches, clovers, alfalfa, etc.) can harbor large populations of these pests. This must be considered if beneficial habitats using these plants are established near the strawberry planting.

Trap crops are also useful in lygus bug management. In California an annual trap crop mix of one dormant and one semi-dormant alfalfa variety, two radish varieties (Daikon and Cherry Belle) and sweet alyssum have been used with success. Lygus bugs move in from the surrounding fields and settle on the trap crops, which can then be treated with insecticides or vacuumed (13). (Bug vacuums are discussed below.)

Research conducted in New England found variation in susceptibility to the lygus bug among 20 strawberry cultivars (14). Honeoye, Sparkle, Veestar, and Canoga suffered the least from feeding, while Kent, MicMac, Scott, Blomidon, and Redchief suffered most.

A fungus, Beauveria bassiana, has some efficacy against lygus bugs. In New York, three years of tests concluded that the commercial formulation of B. bassiana, Mycotrol™, reduced lygus damage about 50% compared to untreated controls, but was still considerably less effective than synthetic insecticides, such as malathion (15). The product worked best when targeted at younger nymphs and when humidity levels were adequate. In combination with other cultural controls (choosing the right cultivar and close mowing near the planting), use of Mycormax™ (J.H. Biotech), Mycostop™ Biofungicide (Ag Biodevelopment, Inc.), or Mycotrol O™ Beauveria bassiana strain GHA (Mycotech Corporation) could be of significant help to organic growers in controlling lygus.

While the lygus bug has several natural insect enemies, none of the native ones has proved consistently effective in providing a commercial level of control in strawberries. A small (1/8th-inch-long) parasitic wasp (Peristenus digoneutis) introduced from Europe in 1984 has exhibited excellent control potential (16); however, it is difficult to rear, and is not commercially available. While it is spreading naturally in the northeastern U.S., it has not moved south of latitude 41° N (New York City). Anaphes ioles is another lygus egg parasitoid that has been used in California and in other states with some success. Researchers who released 15,000 A. iole weekly on one-acre strawberry plots observed a 64% suppression of Lygus hesperus compared to a 44.7% reduction achieved with a pesticide application (17).

A little-used innovation in non-chemical pest control is the BugVac® machine, which is actually a large vacuum cleaner for pests. The BugVac is tractor-mounted and can be set up to sweep as many as four beds in one pass. A trial by University of California researchers concluded that three similar grower-designed vacuum machines reduced lygus bug damage compared to untreated controls, but were not equal to chemical control with a pyrethroid insecticide. The damage, though reduced, was still considered economically unacceptable (18). Because of their marginal effectiveness, combined with the spread of disease spores like powdery mildew and botrytis resulting from their use, Bug Vacs have not been used much in California strawberries. For more information on Bug Vacs, see the ATTRA publication "Bug Vacuums" for Organic Crop Protection.

Because the nymphs are most troublesome, aim your lygus scouting efforts at this life stage. Start checking for nymphs as soon as flowers appear. Tap 10 to 15 flower clusters over a white plastic saucer so that the bright green nymphs can be seen and counted. Figure the average number of nymphs per cluster (total number of nymphs divided by total number of clusters). If sampling is concentrated near weedy borders, the action threshold is 1 nymph per cluster, but if done randomly throughout the planting, .5 nymphs per cluster should be considered adequate to prompt a pesticide treatment (19). However, Cornell researchers caution that growers who intend to use the slow-acting biological insecticide B. bassiana discussed above may need to use a lower threshold (15). If other natural enemies of lygus are present—such as spiders, bigeyed bugs (Geocoris species), assassin bugs (Zelus and Sinea species), damsel bugs (Nabis species), and lacewing larva (Chrysoperla species)—you might want to consider adjusting the threshold numbers accordingly.

Mites
Minute Pirate Bug
Minute Pirate Bug
UC Statewide IPM Project
© 2001 Regents, University of California
The web-spinning spider mites are in the Tetranychus genus, which includes the two-spotted spider mite, Pacific spider mite, and strawberry spider mite, among others. These plant-feeding mites consume juices from strawberry leaves. Large populations can reduce photosynthetic capacity, resulting in weakened plants and reduced fruit yields. Organic growers who do not often use botanical pesticides may see very few mites—if not reduced by pesticides, the natural enemies of the mites will usually keep them in check. These include other mites such as Phytoseiulus persimilis, Metaseiulus occidentalis, and Neoseiulus californicus, and insects like bigeyed bugs, damsel bugs, minute pirate bugs, lacewings, spider mite destroyers, and six-spotted thrips. Growers can buy some of these predators from commercial insectaries to release on the farm. The predators can also be attracted and conserved naturally through the use of insect habitats.

Two-spotted Spider Mites
Two-spotted Spider Mites
UC Statewide IPM Project
© 2001 Regents, University of California

If mites do become a problem, soap sprays are of some help. Sprays for mites, organic or otherwise, need to reach the undersurface of leaves, because this is where the mites feed. This is especially important with soap sprays, which have no residual activity. Sprayers, therefore, need to be powerful enough to blow the leaves around, exposing the undersides.

A scouting method for two-spotted spider mites has been developed in British Columbia and successfully implemented both there and in New York (19). To sample for these mites, walk diagonally across the planting, randomly picking one mature, fully expanded leaflet from every other row, until you've collected 60 leaves. If 25% are infested with mites (about 5 mites per leaflet), a miticide may be in order. Again, the number of natural enemies should also be considered when determining a threshold for chemical treatment. While this scouting method is probably applicable to most areas, growers outside the New York region should check with their local Cooperative Extension Service for scouting guidelines.

Some of the mites you see when scouting may be predator mites. You may need a magnifying glass to distinguish between these beneficial mites and the pest mites. One key to telling them apart is that the beneficial predator mites are generally more active than the two-spotted mites-they are typically moving quickly about the leaf surface looking for prey. Depending on your geographical area and the species involved, the recommended ratio of beneficial mites to pest mites varies, but seems to average approximately 1:10. That is, if there appears to be at least one beneficial mite for every 10 pest mites, control of the pest mites will probably be achieved naturally without the intervention of miticide sprays.

Dust that accumulates on the spider mite's webbing creates an ideal shelter for the mites and their eggs. These little dust "tents" discourage predators and prevent the miticide from reaching the mites and their offspring. California growers commonly water roads, post "slow" signs, plant windbreak crops, and use fencing to decrease dust in strawberry fields.

Companies that sell mites and other beneficial organisms are listed in the California Environmental Protection Agency's Department of Pesticide Regulation booklet, Suppliers of Beneficial Organisms in North America (20). The booklet is free and contains contact information for 142 commercial suppliers of the more than 130 beneficial organisms that are currently used in biological pest control. It not only indexes the suppliers by the natural enemies they sell, it also matches the beneficial organisms with their target pests.

Other Pests
Other arthropod pests that will occasionally reach pest status include aphids, spittlebugs, whiteflies, Cyclamen mite, various caterpillars, earwigs, and leafhoppers. If they become a problem consult your local farm advisor, visit the numerous websites listed below under Electronic Resources, or call ATTRA's toll-free number for information.

 

Disease Control


Site selection is important for successful strawberry production. Plants do best on well-drained soils with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Choose a site higher than the surrounding area for good air and water drainage, which will help reduce disease problems such as gray mold (botrytis). Keeping matted rows narrow (about 6 inches wide—a so-called "ribbon row") will help to improve air circulation and sunlight penetration within the foliage.

Because soils high in organic matter tend to be inhospitable to soil-borne pathogens, incorporating cover crops and/or compost in strawberry fields can aid significantly in suppressing root and crown diseases such as black root rot and red stele. Also, strawberries that are grown on the same land year after year tend to suffer chronic, severe disease problems—well-designed rotations can help to suppress some of these diseases. (Rotations also help control weeds and insects, provide organic matter, and improve the physical structure of the soil.) The best rotations for strawberries include a legume (such as soybeans, alfalfa, cowpeas, or vetch) with rye. Solanaceous crops such as tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, and eggplants should not be grown preceding strawberries, because of the potential introduction of pathogens such as Verticillium.

Shredding the strawberry leaves immediately after harvest—with a rotary mower, sickle-bar mower, or scythe—can significantly reduce diseases such as leaf spot, gray mold, and leaf scorch. Rotary mowing shreds leaves, hastening the breakdown of the plant matter on which the pathogens' survival depends. Since some pathogens will survive this treatment, removal of the plant residue from the field will further aid in minimizing inoculum. If you use a scythe or sickle-bar mower, definitely rake and remove the clippings. Take care that mowers are set high enough to avoid damage to the plant crowns but low enough to remove most of the leaves.

Compost teas and other innovative concoctions such as yeast-sugar solutions, sodium bicarbonate, and milk have become popular as foliar disease preventives among many organic growers. The concept behind their use is to make the host plant inhospitable to the potential pathogen. Compost teas and yeasts introduce non-plant-pathogenic microorganisms that compete with and antagonize the disease spore as it tries to establish itself on the host. Baking soda works at the chemical level, interfering in spore germination . For more information request ATTRA's publications Notes on Compost Teas and Use of Baking Soda as a Fungicide.

Elemental copper and sulfur have long been used by conventional and organic growers as pesticides for bacterial diseases and powdery mildew respectively.

Pre-plant soil solarization, as described in ATTRA's Overview of Organic Fruit Production, can suppress many soil-borne pathogens of strawberries.

Botrytis (gray mold)
Gray mold, caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea, is one of the most common and serious fruit rot diseases. The fungus grows best in cool damp weather, and gray mold can be devastating if rainy weather coincides with harvest, when the fruit is at its ripest and most susceptible. Pickers handling infected berries can spread the infection to healthy berries, causing them to rot within two days after picking. Control of gray mold is aided by removing infected debris from the field and by providing good drainage. Infected fruit can be picked off the plants and placed in the furrow as long as a cultivator can go through the field and bury this fruit. Clean mulch, which keeps fruit off the ground, is also highly recommended. Removing leaves from the field as soon as the harvest season ends can significantly reduce the incidence of gray mold on fruit in June of the following year (21).

Grey Mold on Strawberry
Grey Mold on Strawberry
© 2003 ohioline.ag.ohio-state.edu

Beneficial fungi antagonistic to Botrytis species are being developed for commercial use and may eventually provide effective biological control of gray mold. Gliocladium roseum has shown the most promise for gray-mold control in Canadian research (22). Sprays of Gliocladium spore suspensions are effective, but the researchers are developing a more efficient system using honeybees to deliver the beneficial spores. The researchers place Gliocladium spores in a shallow tray at the hive entrance. The bees walk through the tray, pick up the spores, and deliver them to the flowers during pollen and nectar collection. Control of gray mold in these trials is excellent.

Although there is not a high level of gray-mold resistance in any one strawberry cultivar, Earliglow is relatively resistant compared to most cultivars (23).

Leaf spot
Leaf spot diseases-identified by the presence of spots on leaves and stems-can be caused by the fungi Mycosphaerella fragariae, Ramularia tulasnei, or Phomopis obscurans, or by the bacterium Xanthomomas fragaiae. These pathogens are spread by splashing water and harbored by dead leaves and other plant debris. The recommendations above on foliar disease preventives apply to leaf spot.

Preventive treatments such as sulfur, copper, or compost teas prior to wet weather is advisable for many diseases like leaf spot, gray mold, and powdery mildew. Also, studies have shown that systems using organic mulches have reduced incidence of soil-borne pathogens.

Powdery Mildew
Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that infects foliage, flowers, and fruit. The disease spore prefers intermittently moist conditions and will not germinate in free-standing water. The practically year-round production season, foggy cool nights, and warm days make the disease a major, very persistent problem in coastal California strawberry fields. Sulfur is the most common control on both conventional and organic farms. Milk has been used successfully against powdery mildew on cucurbit crops (24). The fungus Ampelomyces quisqualis has been developed commercially as AQ 10™ for the biological control of powdery mildew on numerous crops including strawberries.

Red stele
Red stele, so named because the disease results in a reddening of the root's center, is caused by the fungus Phytophthora fragariae. The pathogen can remain viable in the soil for up to 20 years.

Where soil moisture is high, such as in low or poorly drained sites, the pathogen will spread to infect new areas. Growers can prevent the disease by planting strawberries in a pathogen-free well-drained area, avoiding over-watering, and setting out only certified disease-free plants. It is possible to select cultivars with resistance to all five races of the red stele fungus.

Anthracnose
Anthracnose can be very serious, causing plants to die out in midsummer. The disease produces a rust color throughout the crown and eventually stops the plants from growing. Symptoms are most noticeable during summer dry spells.

Since high soil fertility favors anthracnose, little or no fertilizer should be applied when disease pressure is strong. However, resistant cultivars can be grown successfully under much higher fertility levels (25). Anthracnose is more prevalent in the Southeast than elsewhere. Commercial growers in the Southeast should avoid planting on former strawberry sites and check with the local Cooperative Extension office for the prevalence of anthracnose in the area and for names of locally adapted resistant cultivars.

 

Greenhouse Production


Five factors—light, heat, pollination, pest control, and economics—make winter strawberry production in a greenhouse very different from field production.

Lighting is critical for winter production. The day-neutral cultivars (e.g., Tribute and Tristar) or the short-day types (e.g., Jewel) are much easier to grow during the short days of winter than most of the traditional June-bearing types. It is difficult and expensive to get the June-bearing types to fruit out of season. Even with the day-neutral types, some supplementary lighting will be necessary to get high-quality fruit.

Supplementary heat will have to be available (in some cases the lighting will provide enough heat). While some non-fruiting vegetables (e.g., leafy greens, such as spinach) can produce well in unheated greenhouses, strawberry plants need about 68 and 54 degrees Fahrenheit day and night, respectively, to produce high yields of high-quality berries.

The grower will also have to provide pollination. Bumblebees are probably the best pollinators in a greenhouse environment. GB Systems (26) and The Green Spot (27) are two commercial sources of bumblebees and bumblebee nesting boxes.

Certain pests (usually the larger ones, e.g., tarnished plant bugs) can be effectively excluded from greenhouses, but others, such as mites, aphids, whitefly, thrips, and fungus gnats are likely to thrive and proliferate. Because of the need for bumblebees for pollination, controlling these pests with conventional pesticides is not a good idea. Fortunately, these pests can be effectively managed with biological controls, such as beneficial mites and lacewing larvae. For the details of greenhouse pest management, contact ATTRA for our series of publications on greenhouse IPM.

Finally, prospective greenhouse growers should spend some time exploring local markets (restaurants, groceries, etc.) Off-season greenhouse growers will be competing with strawberries from California, Mexico, Chile, and Florida. Prices will have to offset the costs of production, so growers will have to be certain to produce an outstanding product. Cornell researcher Marvin Pritts found that the break-even price for greenhouse-grown strawberries was $3/pint. He reports, however, that a small but significant number of consumers are willing to pay that price for high-quality berries.

For more detailed information on greenhouse strawberry production, go to The Berry Diagnostic Tool web page.

 

Alternatives to Methyl Bromide


Methyl bromide fumigation has become a routine practice in conventional commercial strawberry production, especially in California and Florida. Methyl bromide controls most weeds, most soil-borne diseases and nematodes, and soil-dwelling insects. Thus, treating with methyl bromide allows for continuous production of strawberries on the same site year after year. However, methyl bromide is being phased out by the EPA because of its extreme toxicity and its classification as an ozone-depleting gas (28).

Finding a single substitute that can do all that methyl bromide does will be difficult. Chloropicrin, telone, metam-sodium, methyl iodine, and dazomet are some chemicals that are being used and investigated, alone and in combination, as methyl bromide substitutes. These chemicals are similar to methyl bromide in toxicity to soil life—the basis of sustainability—and represent a "silver bullet" approach to pest management. Production and use of these chemicals also entails environmental and worker-safety hazards.

Ironically, ozone gas is being investigated as a substitute for the ozone depleter methyl bromide to control soil pests (and as a post-harvest fumigant for some commodities). It is an effective sterilant, but because of its instability it cannot be stored and must be produced on-site. The advantage of ozone is that its decomposition by-product is oxygen—it leaves no toxic residues. Research done by Soilzone Inc. on strawberries, tomatoes, and carrots looked at marketable yields compared to untreated controls (29). More research is needed on the specificity of ozone against soil pests and other micro-organisms.

For broad-scale pest control similar to methyl bromide, steam and solarization are two possible non-toxic alternatives. Steam sterilization in large fields is currently considered prohibitively expensive and impractical (the equipment necessary to cover large acreages efficiently is simply not yet available). However, equipment is available to treat smaller acreage for high-value crops like strawberries (30).

Where summers are hot and sufficiently sunny, solarization is effective against many weed species, most nematodes, and most serious pathogens. A full description of soil solarization is available in ATTRA's Overview of Organic Fruit Production.

One of the problems with solarization and many of the other alternatives—such as rotations, specialty cover crops, fallow periods, etc.—is that they tie up the crop site for all or a significant part of the growing season. This may seem particularly onerous to growers who are used to planting strawberry crop after strawberry crop with between-crop fumigation. The current recommendation for solarization in California, for example, is to leave the soil covered for 4-6 weeks. The cost of solarization is considerably lower ($150-200/acre) than the cost of methyl bromide ($2,000/acre) and metam sodium under plastic ($400-600/acre) (31), but these savings must be weighed against the production opportunity lost during solarization.

The organic system requiring the least time between crops may be one relying on 1) soil amendments for disease and nematode control and 2) fabric mulch for weed control. Research consistently shows that adding various types of organic matter—compost, fish by-products, chitin, manure, etc.—can aid greatly in disease and nematode control; however, such control will never equal that of methyl bromide fumigation. Most of these soil amendments work by fostering microbial antagonism. That is, the increase of organic matter in the soil promotes the population and activity of various microorganisms, many of which are antagonistic to plant pathogens and nematodes.

SoilGard® and DiTera® are two soil amendment products that have proved effective against certain soil-borne strawberry diseases (SoilGard) and nematodes (DiTera). Both products are based on naturally occurring microorganisms. Other such products are in the registration pipeline.

All the other available alternatives—rotations, "specialty" cover crops, fallow, etc.—are essentially cultural manipulations, and each has its relative strengths and weaknesses when it comes to controlling the various disorders that methyl bromide controls. For instance, grass cover crops are generally non-hosts for nematodes and are therefore an effective rotation crop for helping to control them. However, grass sod is attractive to June and Japanese beetles, which could lead to grub problems. It is probably fair to say that each region, and possibly each grower, will have to work out the "perfect" rotation system for strawberries.

Nonetheless, it is known that chemicals exuded by certain cover crops such as marigolds, castor beans, chrysanthemums, sesame, and mustard suppress nematodes. Some cover crops have exhibited nematode-suppressive characteristics equivalent to aldicarb (32). Almost all of these cover crops are more effective as nematicides when incorporated into the soil. For more information on nematode control request ATTRA's Alternative Nematode Control publication.

Of all these "specialty" cover crops, those in the Brassicaceae (mustard family) seem to be the most effective in combining control of weeds, pathogens, and nematodes (and probably some of the soil-dwelling insect pests). This may be attributable to the release of sulfur compounds from the decomposing residues. Dr. Jack Brown (33), a plant breeder at the University of Idaho, has identified several factors in brassicas that support this "mustard effect" hypothesis. Plant chemicals produced by brassicas, and subsequently released from the decomposing plant, include glucosinolates and isothiocyanates. Breakdown products from glucosinolates are similar to the chemical fumigant VAPAM®. Sulfur, a natural component of isothiocyanate, is also released during decomposition. Dr. Brown has worked on breeding lines of brassicas that contain high levels of glucosinolates; he released the rapeseed cultivar Humus as a product of this research. Applying basic soil solarization techniques after tilling in a brassica cover crop would likely increase the "mustard effect" significantly, resulting in "biofumigation."

Frank Sances, director of Pacific Ag Research, and Elaine Ingham, a soil ecologist and president of Soil Foodweb Inc., have been collaborating on developing organic alternatives to methyl bromide for strawberry production (34). In 1995, they tested alternative chemical treatments alongside organic treatments combining broccoli residue, high rates of compost, and added mycorrhizal fungi. In soils that had been repeatedly fumigated, the organic materials could not regenerate the soil to the extent needed to suppress root pathogens and achieve commercially acceptable yields. However, in soil that had never been in strawberries and had lain fallow for three years, organic amendments produced yields that were only slightly lower than the methyl bromide standard.

In 1996, Sances and Ingham added another variable to their experiments—plug plants. In contrast to the traditional bare-root, field-grown strawberry nursery plant, a plug plant is an individual plant grown in sterile potting media. Such plants offer growers a healthier start for new plantings. The plug plants produced 38.5% higher yields than the bare-root plants in non-fumigated soils (35). The 1997 trial plots were amended with compost and inoculated with vesicular-arbuscular mycorrhizae (VAM); yields were similar to methyl bromide plots, producing 216 more flats than untreated plots. In 1998 there were smaller differences than in previous years between the treated plots with compost and the controls and almost no benefit on either bare-root or plug plants was demonstrated from inoculation with VAM (36).

The California departments of Food and Agriculture and Pesticide Regulation have formed a task force, including the USDA's Agricultural Research Service, to find alternatives to methyl bromide. For the most recent research regarding methyl bromide alternatives check the United States Environmental Protection Agency website.

 

Harvest and Postharvest


Strawberries must be picked and handled very carefully. The fruit must be firm, well-colored, and free from rot. When harvested at the right time and handled properly, strawberries will remain in good condition for many days. Most California- or Florida-grown strawberries found in supermarkets were picked three-quarters ripe to withstand the time and distance traveled. The color of these strawberries is a full red but the taste is disappointing. Small-scale growers who pick ripe can easily compete with supermarket berries by offering a tastier, fresher berry to local consumers.
The Agriculture Land Base Training Association (ALBA) farm, Salina, CA
The Agriculture Land Base Training Association (ALBA) farm, Salina, CA

Proper postharvest handling of strawberries is essential. Cooling the berries will remove field heat and increase shelf life. Harvesting early in the day while temperatures are cool and then precooling the fruit before shipping will extend the shelf life significantly.

Forced-air cooling is the most common method used on strawberries. The flats are stacked parallel to each other in a cold room with an open space between the flats. A tarp is then placed over the top and ends of the stacked cartons, with a fan located between stacks. The fan pulls cold air between the gaps of the stacked flats, removing the field heat from the berries. It is vital that the fruit be cooled as soon as possible. The more the delay between harvesting and cooling exceeds one hour, the greater the losses to deterioration (37). Water loss from the strawberries can be a problem, so it's critical to maintain high humidity in the cooling facility. Avoid wetting the fruit, which can cause decay problems.

Fresh-market strawberries are usually sold in pint or quart baskets covered with plastic wrap. However, one-piece molded-plastic containers called "clamshells" are rapidly replacing this packaging. The time and labor involved in packing the fruit in the traditional pint-size plastic baskets is considerable, because shippers and buyers grade fruit packed in this manner by the arrangement of the fruit in the flat. This puts additional burden on the farm worker to pack the fruit correctly. The use of clamshells makes the strawberry pickers' job a little easier; the wholesalers are not as concerned with the appearance of the fruit pack since it looks uniform with the clear lid. Many of these clamshells are recyclable. A drawback to the clamshells is the greater difficulty of cooling the fruit. The holes in the containers are not big enough to allow for rapid cooling, so extra time in the forced-air cooler is necessary. The clamshell containers also hold less fruit than the pint baskets and sometimes are sold at a lower price. If you sell wholesale or direct to stores, the buyers may require this type of packaging.

Wholesale strawberries that are shipped long distances are placed on pallets, in bags that are injected with carbon dioxide after the fruit is thoroughly cooled. This modified-atmosphere process is patented by Transfresh Corporation of Salinas, California and is known as Tectrol® Atmosphere Pallet System. The process extends the shelf life of the fruit, allowing for transport and marketing. It is also accepted in organic production. It should be noted that large volumes need to be shipped to make this process economically feasible. For more information on the Tectrol® system go to the Transfresh web site.

 

Economics


Strawberries are one of the most popular fruits in the U.S. The majority of commercial production is in California, Florida, Oregon, and Washington. Growers in those states produce 95 percent of reported U.S. output. Growers in the South, East, and Midwest generally have small strawberry acreages located near population centers, and rely on direct-market sales (38).

Strawberries are a high-value crop, but they also have special production requirements, a short shelf life, and a brief marketing season. Initial investment in land preparation, irrigation and other equipment, and so on, can cost from about $3,400 per acre for a matted row system, and up to nearly $20,000 per acre for a plasticulture system (39).

Table 1.
Comparing Strawberry Production Systems: Costs and Returns ($ per acre), Central California Coast, 1994
 
Conventional
Organic
 
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Cultural labor*
8,194
8,755
8,446
9,613
10,094
8,377
Materials and field power
13,474
14,148
10,500
10,770
12,176
9,144
10% interest on working capital
Total Costs
23,346
24,437
20,480
21,780
23,668
18,919
Total Yields**
3,388
3,342
3,321
2,068
2,324
2,388
Total Value***
27,103
26,741
26,568
24,820
27,890
28,658
Return
3,756
2,303
6,087
3,039
4,222
9,738
*Starting at $7.20/hour.
**Trays/acre, based on 5,448 grams/tray.
***Conventional value @ $8/tray, certified-organic @ $12/tray.
Source: Gliessman et al., 1994 (40).

Organic strawberries are in demand across the country. Recently, strawberries made it to a publicized list of top-ten foods to avoid because of high pesticide residues; this may have helped fuel interest in organic strawberries. Because they face higher costs of production, organic growers must secure a premium price in order to make a profit. Continuous cropping of strawberries is not possible in a system that relies on crop rotations; the production cycle is shorter (1-2 fruiting years); yields are both lower and more variable than in conventional systems; and labor requirements may be as much as twice those of a conventional system (39).

Organic and conventional annual strawberry production systems were examined in California over a three-year period (see Table 1). The organic yield was about two-thirds the conventional yield, but prices were 50% higher, making the organic system more profitable over the three-year period (40).

Organic and conventional production were also compared in New York State (39). The breakeven price—or the price at which costs of production are covered—for the conventional system was $1.10/qt. The breakeven price for the organic strawberries was 34% higher at $1.47/qt. By the fourth bearing year, organic strawberries were losing money. It appears that fields should be rotated out of strawberries after 2 years to keep the operation profitable. The researchers found that a price premium of 35% to 40% was required for the organic system to be as profitable as the conventional system. They concluded that there is opportunity for profit in organic strawberries in market niches, but that the size of the market is limited.

When Pritts et al. compared the profitability of retailed berries picked by hired hands to marketing with a pick-your-own (PYO) strategy (39), profits were far lower in the PYO system. The study assumed that the first strategy charged nearly $2/qt., vs. $1/qt. in the PYO system. Poor picking by inexperienced customers was assumed to reduce yield in the PYO by 10%. The PYO's savings in harvest labor were not outweighed by the lower price charged to the consumer.

Prices for fresh-market strawberries have been relatively stable in recent years because of increasing demand. However, organic price premiums are declining as larger growers get into organic production, marketing and distribution systems improve, and a larger supply of organic berries reaches the market. In areas where local market demand is strong and a high proportion of the crop is sold directly to the consumer, prices tend to be much higher. For example, Pritts found that in New York state in 1996 (39), prices for direct-marketed organic strawberries ranged from $2 to $3.50 per quart.

Farmgate prices for organic strawberries in 1999 ranged from about $11 to $17 per 12-pint flat, with wholesale prices ranging from $12 to $23 per flat (41). Wholesale prices for conventional strawberries are relatively low because of the large volumes of inexpensive strawberries available in April and May from the southern and central-coast areas of California. In 2001, wholesale prices received by conventional strawberry farmers averaged about $65/cwt, which translates to about $7.81 per 12-pint flat (42). Organic wholesale prices in 2001 averaged $8.00 for a flat of clamshells and $11.00 for a flat of pint baskets (43).

Assistance with financial calculations for strawberry growers is available in Pritts's Strawberry Production Guide (see Print Resources), which includes budget spreadsheets on a floppy disk that allow the grower to calculate his or her own budgets and estimate returns under a range of production, pricing, and marketing scenarios.

 

Marketing


Four basic marketing alternatives are available to the strawberry grower: wholesale markets, cooperatives, processing firms, and direct sales to retail outlets or consumers. Because they are so perishable, strawberries are well suited to roadside stands and pick-your-own operations.

In wholesale marketing, either you or a shipper can take your crop to the market. Shippers generally sell and transport strawberries for a predetermined price. Wholesale marketing is subject to price fluctuations and is not usually very profitable, compared to direct marketing. Jim Cochran of Swanton Berry Farm in California, says, "I consider myself lucky to get five percent of gross. So, on a twenty-dollar flat of strawberries, (there is) a dollar for the company to keep" (44). Marketing cooperatives generally use a daily pooled cost and price, which spreads price fluctuations among all participating producers. Depending on your location and size, processors may or may not be a marketing option. Processors are less likely to contract with small-acreage growers.

Strawberries are successfully direct-marketed in a variety of ways, including farmers' markets, roadside stands, and pick-your-own (PYO) operations. Local retailers, such as grocery or health-food stores, are another possible market, but you must take the time to contact produce managers and provide good-quality strawberries when stores require them.

With pick-your-own operations, you save on harvest costs, but you must also be willing to accept some waste. The trend in recent years has been toward an increase in pre-picked strawberry sales at the farm, and a reduced reliance on pick-your-own marketing (45). More information on PYOs, including the results of a survey of PYO strawberry customers (PDF) is available.

For more information on direct-marketing options, see the ATTRA publications Direct Marketing, Farmers' Markets, CSA, and Entertainment Farming and Agri-tourism. For information on organic markets, see ATTRA's Organic Marketing Resources.

Other ATTRA Publications of Interest:
Overview of Organic Fruit Production
Fertilization, pests, weed control, obstacles
Biointensive Integrated Pest Management
Uses, benefits, monitoring, economic thresholds, planning, tools & options, microbial pesticides

 

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